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Chapter 5 Lecture: Wave Setup and Setdown

Chapter 5 lecture : Wave Setup and SetdownRadiation stresses can be applied in many cases where surface gravity waves generate flows ontime- and length-scales longer than waves . This is particularly true when there are spatial gradientsin the average wave properties ( ,wave energyE), such as what happends when waves shoal,refract, encounter a current, and we shall consider the simplest such applications, but an extremely important one of whathappens when waves shoal as the water depth decreases, and briefly what happens when wavesbegin to break. Other, more complex applications will be addressed DerivationConsider the case of no mean flow, waves approaching the shore with bottom slopedh/dx[FIG-URE] To analyze what happends in this situation we consider1.

Chapter 5 Lecture: Wave Setup and Setdown Radiation stresses can be applied in many cases where surface gravity waves generate flows on time-andlength-scaleslongerthanwaves.

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