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Coastal Landforms and Processes

Coastal Landforms and Processes Waves, Tides and Shallow Water Processes Littoral Zone Beaches & Seasonal Cycles Barrier Islands Beach Ridges Spits Deltas Coastal Cliffs Marine Terraces Wave-Cut Scarps Sea Level Fluctuations Barrier Island Migration Coastal Diversity 1 Hawaiian coastline Photo source: SCGS Factors Influencing Coastal Geomorphology Wind direct influence: saltation, dunes/blowouts indirect influence: wave generation, ocean circulation setup - setdown Seiches: lakes, estuaries, small seas, created by changes in barometric pressure, violent storms and tides. Storms: tropical, extratropical (Noreasters), storm surges, winds, waves Biology: reef builders, filter feeders, grasses/wetlands etc. Sea Level Changes Sea level changes are easily determined from water level gauges.

• Depositional landforms. • Most often associated with sand-sized quartz grains, shells or shell hash. • Dependent on source of material (volcanic, coral, gravel etc.) • Seasonal/storm cycles of evolution, accretion: wider higher during calm summer months, deflation: narrow, low profile during storm season. • Stable, Erosional, Acretional

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