Transcription of Science - Catharine Ellis
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Science - Catharine Ellis
26 Surface Design JournalNatural dyes are experiencing a great resur-gence of interest in the textile world. They areconsidered eco-friendly and nontoxic, fittingnicely into similar trends of repurposing, up-cycling, and local food. We are all becoming moreaware of how we as individuals can affect ourenvironment. Yet natural dyeing has also sufferedfrom bad press. In the past, toxic mordants,metallic salts that help bind dye to fiber, wereused regularly without any safety fugitive dyes (made from non-dye plants)are used, the color fades quickly or disappearscompletely from textiles leaving all naturaldyes to take the blame. At first glance, natural might seem asimplistic approach to dyeing , but there is a greatdeal of scientific information involved to process:What is the best mordant to use for protein (wooland silk) or cellulose (cotton and paper)?
Yet natural dyeing has also suffered from bad press. In the past, toxic mordants, ... are grounded in science, fact, experimentation, and history. ... CATHARINE ELLIS Detail of woven shibori cotton fabric dyed with lac and sumac leaves, mordanted with alum, ferrous and titanium. Photo by the artist.
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