2. 고급지방산 (Fatty Acid) - cosnet.co.kr

1 CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon 2. (Fatty Acid) (Fatty Acid) 92~95% . (Free Fatty Acid) . , . , , . , , , , 260 C , 49atm , SUS316 ( ) ( ).

2 6 (-COOH) . 6 R- , (Saturated) , (Unsaturated) , . R- (-OH) (-COOH) . , (NaOH), (KOH), . , , . , , , , , . CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon [ ].

3 [ ] ICID [ ] . [ ] , [ ] . RCOHO CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon [ ] ICID - ICID C6 Caproic Acid / CH3(CH2)4 COOH C7 Heptanoic Acid / CH3(CH2)5 COOH C8 Caprylic Acid / CH3(CH2)6 COOH C9 Pelargonic Acid / CH3(CH2)7 COOH C10 Capric Acid / CH3(CH2)8 COOH C11 Undecanoic Acid / CH3(CH2)9 COOH C12 Lauric Acid / CH3(CH2)10 COOH C13 Tridecanoic Acid / CH3(CH2)11 COOH C14 Myristic Acid / CH3(CH2)12 COOH C15 Pentadecanoic Acid / CH3(CH2)13 COOH C16 Palmitic Acid / CH3(CH2)14 COOH C17 Margaric Acid / CH3(CH2)15 COOH C18 Stearic Acid / CH3(CH2)16 COOH C20 Arachidic Acid / CH3(CH2)18 COOH (Saturated Fatty Acid) C22 Behenic Acid / CH3(CH2)20 COOH C11 Undecylenic Acid / CH2=CH(CH2)8 COOH C16 Palmitoleic Acid / CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)7 COOH C18 Oleic Acid / CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7 COOH C18 Linoleic Acid / CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)

4 7 COOH C18 Linolenic Acid / CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7 COOH C20 Arachidonic Acid / CH3(CH2)4(CH=CHCH2)4CH2CH2 COOH (Unsaturated Fatty Acid) C22 Erucic Acid / CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)11 COOH CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon 1) (Lauric Acid / CH3(CH2)10 COOH) ( 45~51% ) (50~55% ) . , (Lauric Acid/CH3(CH2)10 COOH) 93~97%, (Capric Acid/CH3(CH2)8 COOH) 0~7%, (Myristic Acid/CH3(CH2)12 COOH) ~7%.

5 (NaOH), (KOH), (Triethanolamine;TEA) , . [ ] : 32~45 C, : 275~285, : 3 , : 1 2) (Myristic Acid / CH3(CH2)12 COOH) ( ~ ) (14~15% ) , 94~97%, 2~3% . , , (Isopropyl Myristate;IPM) . [ ] : 48~ C, : 244~249, : 1 3) (Palmitic Acid / CH3(CH2)14 COOH) ( 40~50% ), 67~95%, 1~9%, 4~30% . , (Isopropyl Palmitate;IPP).

6 [ ] : 56~63 C, : 212~222, : 3 , : 2 4) (Stearic Acid / CH3(CH2)16 COOH) ( 2~ , 27~29%, CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon 24~25%, 43~44%, ~ ) (Oleic Acid) , , . , Single pressed type, Double pressed type, Triple pressed type, High stearic type, High palmitic type , / 55/45 , Triple pressed type.

7 , . , , . [ ] : 52~70 C, : 192~215, : 3 , : 7 5) (Behenic Acid / CH3(CH2)20 COOH) ( C) , (Erucic Acid) . , , . [ ] : 69~80 C, : 164~175, : 3 , : 3 6) (Oleic Acid / CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7 COOH) , (Wintering).

8 [ ] : , : 4 C, : 188~203, : 85~95 CosNet Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary , : (Jeon Sang Hoon) Principle of Cosmetic Ingredient Editor : Jeon Sang Hoon 7) (Isostearic Acid) 18 . , . , , . [ ] : , : 180 , : 8) (Linoleic Acid / CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7 COOH) (Linolenic Acid), (Arachidonic Acid) F.

9 O/W (Emollient ), (Occlusive ) . , . [ ] : , : -18 C, : 200, : 181 9) (Undecylenic Acid / CH2=CH(CH2)8 COOH) , . , , , . 10) 12- (12-Hydroxy stearic acid) , . 12 (-OH) , Gel , (Liquid Parafin).

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