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Building a Small Horizontal Steam Engine T - John-Tom

Building a Small Horizontal Steam Engine HE Small Engine described in thisarticle was built by the writer inhis spare time about an hour a day forfour months and drives the machineryin a Small shop. At 40-lb. gauge pres-sure, the Engine runs at 150 , underfull load, and delivers a little over .4brake horsepower. A cast Steam chest,with larger and more direct Steam ports,to reduce condensation losses; less clear-ance in the cylinder ends, and largerbearing surfaces in several places, wouldbring the efficiency of the Engine up to amuch higher point than this. In thewriter's case, however, the Engine is de-livering ample power for the purpose towhich it is applied, and consequentlythese changes were not made, but, if theengine is to be used forcontinuous rather thanintermittent service, itwould be foolish to wastepower costing more thanthe changes needed toconserve might be remarked,at this point, that nomethod of constructiondescribed here is to betaken as the best; manybetter methods of mak-ing each part will doubt-less occur to the improvements thatwere thought of too lateto be incorporated in theengine will be mentionedin the proper cylinder, sh

Building a Small Horizontal Steam Engine HE small engine described in this ... gland nut is made of brass-bar stock, threaded to fit the stuffing box, and the hexagon ground on it. When the parts ... 4 to 7 Show the Component Parts of the Steam Chest, as Built Up, and an Assembly View of the Finished Steam Chest, without the Cover; Note ...

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Transcription of Building a Small Horizontal Steam Engine T - John-Tom

1 Building a Small Horizontal Steam Engine HE Small Engine described in thisarticle was built by the writer inhis spare time about an hour a day forfour months and drives the machineryin a Small shop. At 40-lb. gauge pres-sure, the Engine runs at 150 , underfull load, and delivers a little over .4brake horsepower. A cast Steam chest,with larger and more direct Steam ports,to reduce condensation losses; less clear-ance in the cylinder ends, and largerbearing surfaces in several places, wouldbring the efficiency of the Engine up to amuch higher point than this. In thewriter's case, however, the Engine is de-livering ample power for the purpose towhich it is applied, and consequentlythese changes were not made, but, if theengine is to be used forcontinuous rather thanintermittent service, itwould be foolish to wastepower costing more thanthe changes needed toconserve might be remarked,at this point, that nomethod of constructiondescribed here is to betaken as the best; manybetter methods of mak-ing each part will doubt-less occur to the improvements thatwere thought of too lateto be incorporated in theengine will be mentionedin the proper cylinder, shown inFig.

2 1, is made from apiece of steel pipe, se-lected with special re-gard to the condition of the inner sur-face. This may be bored to size, andlapped, or ground. A standard insidediameter will make the fitting of a stand-ard auto- Engine piston ring easy. Theends are threaded on the lathe, standardpipe-thread size, while supported on twoconical hardwood blocks, held on athreaded mandrel, and drawn firmly intothe cylinder ends with nuts and standard mandrels for this purpose,if available, are more convenient. Therectangular plate A, that supports therear end of the cylinder, is also bored andthreaded on the lathe, using a four-jawindependent chuck to hold it. This plate,the rear cylinder head, and a copper gas-ket are clamped together, and the similarholes in each all drilled at one make the stuffing box, a length of2-in.

3 Cast-iron rod is drilled to fit thepiston rod, then turned out at the front,recessed to a width of .625 in. for thepacking, and threaded to fit the glandnut. The piece is then reversed in thelathe, and the outside threaded to fit thecylinder. After cutting off, the wrenchflats are ground on the shoulder. Thegland nut is made of brass -bar stock,threaded to fit the stuffing box, and thehexagon ground on it. When the partsare assembled, with the packing in place,the piston and rod should work smoothly,but stiffly, in stuffing box and cylinder,and be almost immovable when the portsare piston is made of cast iron, andundercut to reduce the weight, as in front cylinder head is a pipe cap,the exterior of which is turned to pre-sent a more pleasing appearance, anddrilled and threaded to receive the stuff-ing box, Fig.

4 2. The distance betweenthe edge of the front-end Steam port andthe inner side of the cap, when screwedhome, should be much less than thatshown, not over in., for efficiency, andthe same at the rear end. When thecap has been permanently screwed onthe cylinder, one side is flattened, asshown, on the shaper or grinder, and thesteam ports laid out and drilled. It wouldbe a decided advantage to make theseports as much larger than given as ispossible, as the efficiency with -in. portsis far below what it might of the Engine Complete, Ready to be Mounted on the Bed and to beConnected to the Steam Line: The Total Cost of Building Was $ ;This may be Considerably Reduced by Following Closely the Directions GivenT3. The groove is turned to suit a stand-ard.

5 188 by 3-in. piston ring. The pistonrod, which is of steel, must be fitted tothe piston with great care, to insure theirbeing exactly square with each the face of the piston is square withthe edge, the inner nut on the rod facedoff square in the lathe, while on the rod,and the piston and locknuts then put onand tightened, no difficulty should Steam chest, shown in Figs. 4 to 7,is the hardest part of the Engine to this case, it is built up, using a squarebar for the port block, an angle piecefor the bottom and side, two endpieces,and a port block, Fig. 5, is made of softsteel, the ports being drilled in as indi-cated by the dotted lines, from the endsand front, so as to provide a continuouspassage for the Steam . The exhaustport is drilled in from the front andbottom faces.

6 The endpieces of the steamchest are held in place by short , tapped into, and closing, theholes in the ends of the port block, andby long .312-in. bolts connecting the outeredges. The stuffing box on the front end-piece, Fig. 7, is made by brazing a blanknut to it, and making a snug-fitting glandfor it, as shown in Fig. 8. The gland isdrilled a neat fit for the valve rod, andfor the -in. bolts that draw it into thestuffing box against the parts of the Steam chest are groundflat and smooth before assembling, and,when chest and cylinder are completed,are brazed together, all joints, the ex-haust pipe, and the supports being brazedat the same time. When brazing, thesteam ports should be plugged from in-side the cylinder, to prevent any spelterfrom flowing into and closing them.

7 Thesteam-chest cover is not brazed on, but isheld by by -in. screws, entering theport block, and by long bolts at the outeredge, passing through a heavy strip ofiron below the chest. Packing is usedon the Steam -chest cover slide valve, Fig. 9, is cut from ablock of soft steel, or cast iron, the open-ing in the face being cut as deeply as pos-sible, drilling the center hole first, andplugging it to. obtain centers for thedrilling of the outer holes. If the steamports are enlarged, the dimensions of thevalve must be changed; the new dimen-sions can be found by making a full-sizelayout of the ports and valve, or by mak-ing cardboard models of Steam chest,valve, and ports, and adjusting these untilthe correct dimensions are is room for considerable experi-ment on the valve; any textbook onsteam engines will provide suggestionsfor adding lap to the valve, to cut off thesteam before the end of the stroke, andsince it is comparatively easy to makethis part, it is well to fit the valve to theengine after the latter is crosshead and guides, shown inFigs.

8 12 and 13, are simple in a shaper or planer is available, a betterconstruction may be made by followingany of the designs seen on large cups on each bearing will furnishsufficient connecting rod, Fig. 14, is madeof 1-in. square stock, turned to a diam-eter of in. in the center. The "big end"is drilled larger than the crankpin, andthen sawed as indicated, so that the up-per piece may be removed. Bolt holesare drilled through both pieces. Whenthe Engine is assembled, shims are placedbetween the halves of the big end, andbabbitt poured through the oil-cup hole,around the crankpin, using putty damson each side of the bearing. Small holesare drilled in the walls of the crankpin-bearing seat, before babbitting, to anchorthe babbitt in place. The other end ofthe rod is fitted with a yoke and wrist-pin, as indicated, the diameter of the pinbeing made as large as possible, and runin babbitt bearings.

9 Large- Engine prac-tice may be followed here, if desired; infact, it will pay to study the details oflarge units, and to follow them as closelyas possible everywhere, remembering thatthis description does not pretend to showthe best practice, but only how the jobmay be done with material at eccentric is turned from roundstock, 2 in. in diameter, cutting the sheavefirst, then changing centers to turn theboss. The latter should be left longenough to enable it to be held in a chuckfor drilling, after which it may be cut tolength; the boss may be fitted so as tobear against the outboard crankshaftbearing, to prevent side motion of thecrankshaft, instead of using eccentric rod and strap are madeof a length of .125 by -in. flat iron, asshown in Fig. 15. The valve-rod endshould be fitted with a wristpin and yokeas on the connecting rod, instead of theconstruction indicated, which is onlyshown to give the dimensions.

10 The strapthat fits the groove in the eccentric islapped to a smooth bearing surface byclamping it round a mandrel covered withfine emery and oil, and grinding until thestrap fits the eccentric sheave 1 to 3, Complete Details of the Cylinder, Stuffing Box and Gland, Piston and Piston Rod; Figures4 to 7 Show the Component Parts of the Steam Chest, as Built Up, and an Assembly View of the FinishedSteam Chest, without the Cover; Note Carefully the Method of Drilling the Steam Ports in the Block Shownin Figure 6, and the Position of the Various Parts in the Assembly ViewREAR HEADDRILLINSIDE END OFCYLINDER,FRONT HEADPIPE TAPPLATE APIPE A, REAR HEAD, ANDDRILLCYLINDERAPISTON AND RODFIG. 3 CYLINDER HEAD STUFFING BOX AND GLANDFIG. 2 SECTION THROUGH A-AFRONT CHEST SUPPORTSTEAM-CHEST COVERPLAN OF ASSEMBLED CHESTLOWER SUPPORT FOR CHEST-COVER BOLTSDRILLREAR CHEST VIEWSIDE VIEWSTEAM-CHEST PORT BLOCKPLUGGEDTOP VIEWSIDE AND BOTTOM OF Steam CHESTFRONT ENDDRILLSTEAM-CHEST ENDSFIG.


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