紡織材料導論 - cc.ntut.edu.tw

1 Ultimate Edition Alpha 1. 2. 3. 4. 1. 2. 3. AstrayB 10 Polyester TPA+EG PET+nH2O 2 4 8 3 The Textile PipelineClothing from Fiber to Consumer ( ) ( ) / Part I ( ) ( ( ) ( ))

2 Part II Modify Rayon Part III Polyolefin PE=Polyethylene PP=Polypropylene PTEE=Poly Tetra Flour Ethylene PVA= Poly Viruylalcohol( ) Part IV PA= PolyAmide(Nylon 66, Nylon 6) ( )PU= Polyurethane ( 400 ) PE= Poly Ester PC/ABS= PolyCarbonatePU MEK DMF 400 1000 Nylon6 Nylon66 Al2O3 Part V Reeling 1 cm=10^--2 m 20~25 0~5*10^ -6m Tow = + Part VII ( False Twist)

3 Warp Knitting Weft Knitting Part VIII Weft Knitting Warp Knitting Part IX Part X Filament Staple Fiber Lint Split film Tow Top Yarn Apparel Use Yarn Home Textile Carpet Use Industrial Yarn Handed Knitted Yarn Sewing Yarn Cable, Thread, Cord Part XI T/C = Cotton+ PET 50% CVC= Cotton+ PET 50% TITAS ITMA ATME OTEMAS High Technology Textile (High-Tech Textile) Mobiltex Traffic Textiles Indutex Industrial Textiles Medtex Medical Textiles Hometex Home Textiles Clothtex Cloth Textiles Agrotex Agriculture Textiles Builtex Architecture Textiles Packtex Packing Textiles Sporttex Sport (Outdoor) Textiles Geotex Geometrical (Civil) Textiles Protex Protection Textiles Oekotex Environment (Ecological)

4 Textiles PET FilamentPET StapleT/C T/R T/W Rayon wool Polyester 20% Grey Cloth or Fabric Tensel Polypropylene AdditionalPolymerizationPolyacrylonitril ePAN Propylene+NH3 Acrylic Part I = Polyester staple fiber PTA( ) EG( ) PTA EG (Fiber chip) (PET) Fiber chip Fiber chip (Polyester Filament) (FOY) (POY) (SOY) POY POY POY (DTY) (Polyester Staple) (cotton type) (worsted type) 100% (SPUN) 65% T/C 50% CVC T/R Part II TPA=Terephthalate Acid Polypropylene EG=Ethylene Glycohol FOY= POY= SOY= POY DTY= 100% SPUN= 50% T/C 50% CVC T/R R/C / T/R / Produce Company of Polyester Chip in Taiwan20 ~100 1.

5 W/ L*9000 d/f 9000 2. Tex W/ L*1000 D/9 Draw Ratio1. Output Speed/Input Speed 2. Part III SDY=Semi-Dull Yarn FDY=Full-Dull Yarn CDY=Caption Dyed Bright Yarn UDY=Undraw Yarn POY=Partial Oriented Yarn MOY=Modify Oriented Yarn HOY=High Oriented Yarn =Crystalline Region =Amorphous Region = =Orientation BR= SD= FD= =TiO2 Z Crystalline RegionZ Amorphous RegionZ Middle Region Polyester Nylon PFY P-FDY P-POY P-MOY PDW Dope-Dye NFY N-FDY N-HOY N-POY NDW Dope-Dye CPL PTA+EG Polymerization Drying Spiting Take Up DrawingPET-Chip BR SD CD FD BottlePA-Chip BR SD FD Automatic Packing Nylon MOY POY FDY HOY BR SD CD FDP-DTY N-DTY NFY NDW PFY PDWIV=Intrinsic Viscosity

6 Produce Company of Nylon Chip in Taiwan Nylon Glass Metallic CPL Car LocumNylon / Glass / Metallic CPL Nylon Chip (Caplactum) Produce Company of Man-Made Fiber in Taiwan Produce Company of Man-Made Fiber in Taiwan The Introduction to the Products of Taiwan Polyester Fibers75d/48f ( ~ ) 75d/72f 75d/144f ( ) POY False Twist Draw Textured Yarn The Introduction to the Products of Taiwan Nylon Fibers Spun YarnRing Mowing Carding Ironing Roving Ring SpinningCarded Yarn Combed Yarn Combing Open End Spinning VendingOE Spun Yarn, OE The Introduction to the Products of Taiwan Man-Made Fibers Carbon 32~ 38~51mmAcrylic/Wool = A/WTextron/Wool = T/WTextron=PolyesterRSF = Warp BeamSizing Beam= Loom Beam= Wearing Beam= Grey Cloth Dyeing & Finishing Scouring Dyeing SettingWeight Reduced, Antipilling, Brushing, Sanding.

7 Inspection & Packing 010203040506070020406080100 01020304050600 20 40 60 80 100 D1~D100 D100 1 1000 Polymer or Monomer + Functional Polymer or Powder Compounding Spinning Functional Fibers0= Powder1= Fiber2=Film3= Balk Carbon Black (Black)ITOATO (TiO2)Form AgentCaCO3 Lemon AcidAnti-UV FiberPET+TiO2 Composite PowderPET+ Flame Retardant PETFIR= ZnO2 Al2O3 Nano Ag or Chitosan Manchester United /PET (W= ) / (W= ) FDA JFDA FDA = JFDA = FIR FIR ZPET/FIR FiberZNylon/FIR FiberZPAN/FIR Fiber EX.

8 PA/FIR PA Matrix FIR Filler ZT/C or CVC ZEVA/LDPE ZPET/PBT Nonwoven Z50 Z 80~90%Z 75d/144f 75d/288f Z75d/144f High Count 75d/72f 75d/36fT/C or CVC Compounding CopolymerEVA/LDPE PET/PBT Nonwoven UV Clay Mica 370 UVA UVB UVC A B A 10 / B 10 / A B B RoHS RoHS RoHS 1. 2.

9 5 / -- 10 -- 5 -- 8 4wt% -- -- -- -- -- (Deca BDE)-- -- -- WEEE WEEE Waste Electronics and Electrical Equipment WEEE 1000V 1500 WEEE 2005 12 31 WEEE CFC HCFC HFCs 100 75/442/EEC 4 = Nomex

10 CFR 1615 1616 PET/BCRayon/BC( )Nylon/BC = :1 Rayon 13% PET( ) PP(0%) Acrylic(0%) Nylon( )AATCC 10^12 Polymer 10^7~10^12 Antistatic 10^5~10^7 Electrodischarge 10^2~10^5 Conductive 10^5 Metal EMS Composite Materials (Nano or Submioron)0=Powder 1=Fiber 2=Film 3=Bulk 0/1 0/2 0/3BC/PET 0/1 BC/PU 0/2 BC/Nonwoven 0/3 SiO2/ZO2 0/0 / PTA+EG POYDTY (Metal Foil) (Paper Sheet) (Foam) (Film) (Single Yarns)Z (Filament Yarns)