Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services - WPMU DEV

1 Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Results! Why, man, I have gotten lots of results. I know several thousand things that won t work. Thomas A. Edison Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

2 All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Objectives Explain the structure and purpose of each of the hair s layers. Explain the Chemical actions that take place during permanent waving. Explain the difference between an alkaline wave and a true acid wave. Explain the purpose of neutralization in permanent waving. Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

3 Describe how thio relaxers straighten the hair. Describe how hydroxide relaxers straighten the hair. Describe curl re-forming and what it is best used for. Objectives (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chemical Texture Services Cause a Chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair Allow you to offer clients a variety of styling options not otherwise available Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

4 All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Alter Wave Patterns Curl straight hair Straighten overly curly hair Soften coarse, straight hair Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Types of Services Permanent waving: adding wave or curl to hair relaxing : removing curl, leaving hair smooth and free Curl re-forming: loosening overly curly hair into softer curls or waves Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

5 All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Hair Structure Cuticle: tough outer layer of hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects hair from damage Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Cortex: middle layer of hair located beneath cuticle; responsible for hair strength and elasticity Medulla: innermost layer of hair, often called pith or core; does not play a role in restructuring; missing in some types of hair Hair Structure (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

6 All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. pH and Texture pH means potential hydrogen. It represents the quantity of hydrogen ions and measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance. pH scale has a range of 0 to 14; 7 is neutral. Below 7 is acid. Above 7 is alkaline. Hair is to Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

7 Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids: compounds made of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur Peptide (end) bonds: Chemical bonds that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains to form polypeptide chains Polypeptide chains: formed by peptide bonds linked together Keratin proteins: make up about 97 percent of hair s structure Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Side bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together Building Blocks of Hair (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.

8 All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Building Blocks of Hair (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Building Blocks of Hair (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

9 Keratin Proteins Made up of long, coiled chains of amino acids linked together end-to-end like beads by end bonds Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Side Bonds Disulfide: formed when sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined; only broken by chemicals; account for about 1/3 of hair s strength Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

10 Salt: relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges; can be broken by water; account for about 1/3 of hair s strength Hydrogen: weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water; account for about 1/3 of hair s strength Side Bonds (continued) Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.