Cosmetic Peptides - Bachem

1 Cosmetic . Peptides . Cosmetic Peptides PIONEERING PARTNER FOR. Cosmetic Peptides . Peptides are involved in many physiological processes. Their broad acceptance as natural molecules, relatively high stability and well- de ned actions make them attractive for many skin-related indi- cations, most notably in anti-aging therapy. We have considerable expertise and long-standing experience in peptide synthesis. With our capacity to upscale the production of simple and modi ed pep- tides, we are the partner of choice for the pharmaceutical and cos- metic industries. Our portfolio reaches from catalog products, which can be purchased in small amounts for research, to the production of commercial batch sizes used by our customers for formulation.

2 In addition, we offer several services such as the assurance of the compatibility with CMR requirements and microbiological limits. Step in project Performed by Catalog products (small amounts, mostly from stock) for early research Bachem R&D, discovery of new peptide Cosmetic ingredients Our customers Handling of intellectual properties on the active ingredients Our customers Synthesis of the rst proof of concept batch for early development Bachem Formulation development Our customers Early tests on mode of action and dosage Our customers Process development for scale-up till the commercial batch size Bachem Compatibility with CMR requirements (residual solvent, heavy metal traces)

3 Bachem Compatibility with microbiological limits Bachem Toxicological studies Our customers INCI registration Our customers Production of commercial peptide batches Bachem 2. Introduction Exposure of skin to UV-light increases ROS. The Cosmetic industry requires a variety of levels leading to changes in gene and pro- different ingredients for skin care products. tein structure and function and subsequent These include Peptides , growth factors, skin damage. Obvious effects of UV expo- antioxidants, anti-in ammatory botanicals, sure are the disruption of ongoing collagen and polysaccharides.

4 As these products synthesis, induction of collagenase and show drug-like effects they are commonly other extracellular matrix protein-degrad- referred to as cosmeceuticals. In contrast ing enzymes, and the damage of cellular to drugs these ingredients are not regulated DNA. The premature skin-aging effects of by the Food and Drug Administration tobacco smoking are caused by induction of (FDA). collagenase activity and the reduced blood Originally, Peptides became of interest in ow to the skin due to nicotine-induced cosmetics as a result of the discovery of vasoconstriction.

5 Intrinsic factors such as their bene cial effects in wound healing. the generation of ROS contribute to the loss As Peptides are involved in an immense of extracellular matrix proteins, a decrease number of physiological processes, it was in cutaneous blood ow, and a loss of cells logical to further exploit them for Cosmetic and cell function. applications. Most of the Peptides used in cosmetics are designed to counteract the Peptides in Cosmetics aging process of the skin. The need for such Peptides have become very important products is driven by the increasing desire ingredients in Cosmetic products, especially in modern society to maintain a young in anti-aging preparations, and many of appearance even at an older age, and the them are already available as research- breadth of possible treatments to achieve grade catalog products (Table 1).

6 Accord- this goal. The increasing knowledge about ing to their mode of action, they have been the molecular details of the skin-related divided into three main groups: signal pep- aging processes has signi cantly contrib- tides, neurotransmitter-affecting Peptides , uted to the exploration of novel anti-aging and carrier Peptides . The rst group mainly agents. consists of Peptides which are able to increase collagen synthesis, or alternatively, Skin Aging inhibit the breakdown of collagen by colla- Skin aging is a process in uenced by ex- genase. The second group includes Peptides trinsic and intrinsic factors and is mani- mimicking the effects of botulinum neuro- fested by a progressive loss of skin tissue, toxins whereas the third group, the carrier the gradual loss of skin elasticity, and the Peptides , acts by delivering trace elements appearance of ne lines and wrinkles.

7 Ex- required for enzymatic processes. trinsic factors include exposure to UV-light, environmental pollution, cigarette smoke, Signal Peptides and extreme weather conditions. Aged skin is, amongst others, characterized The continuous generation of reactive by reduced levels of collagen and elastin. oxygen species (ROS) during cellular me- Increasing the number of broblasts or tabolism and genetic predispositions are their collagen production and/or inhibiting considered as intrinsic factors. further collagen hydrolysis are therefore Extrinsic factors, most notably UV irradia- considered effective means to halt or slow tion and smoking, seem to be the major the aging process of the skin.

8 Many of the contributors to premature skin aging. Peptides used in Cosmetic preparations are 3. Cosmetic Peptides Table 1: Cosmeceutical-related research quantities offered from our catalog Prod. No. product Activity F-1040 Ac-Hyp-OH Anti-in ammatory, wound healing E-1135 Ac-Met-OH Anti-wrinkle H-1156 Ac-Ser-Asp-Lys-Pro-OH Stimulation of keratinocyte, broblast and follicle dermal papilla cell growth E-1245 Ac-Tyr-NH Anti-wrinkle H-1555 H-Ala-His-Lys-OH Enhancement of collagen synthesis G-4555 L-Anserine nitrate Antioxidant G-4425 Carcinine Antioxidant G-1250 L-Carnosine Antioxidant H-2390 Chemotactic Domain of Elastin (VGVAPG) Stimulation of skin broblast proliferation H-5586 rec -Defensin 2 (human)

9 Elevated expression in psoriasis and in the in amed skin of mastitis H-7316 Dermcidin-1L (human) Activation of keratinocytes F-2395 H- -Di uoro-Me-DL-Orn-OH HCl H O Reduction of excessive hair growth (hirsutism). H-2750 (D-Ala )-Leu-Enkephalin Anti-wrinkle peptide H-3630 H-Gly-Pro-Hyp-OH Anti-wrinkle and anti-aging C-1910 Z-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu-OH Inhibitor of desquamation of human skin H-9795 rec IL-1 (human) Role in skin renewal C-3900 Z-Ile-Glu(OtBu)-Ala-Leu-aldehyde Inhibitor of accumulation of ubiquitinylated proteins in neuronal cells G-2450 Kyotorphin Reducing the sensitivity of the skin H-3510 Liver Cell Growth Factor (GHK) Enhancement of collagen synthesis H-4210 H-Lys-Phe-Lys-OH (KFK) Activation of LAP-TGF.

10 H-1100 (Nle ,D-Phe )- -MSH Anti-in ammatory H-2716 (Met ,Pro ,D-Phe ,D-Trp ,Phe )- -MSH Anti-in ammatory (5-13). H-4230 -MSH (11-13) (free acid) Anti-in ammatory H-6590 (D-Pro )- -MSH (11-13) (free acid) Anti-in ammatory G-2855 H-Phe- -Ala-OH Inhibitor of hair growth. Eventually promoting effect on wound healing H-1592 Procollagen Type I (212-216) (KTTKS) Enhancement of collagen synthesis G-3025 H-Pro-Hyp-OH Stimulation of broblast proliferation, chondroprotective H-4058 (Cyclo(Glu -Lys ),Leu )-pTH (1-31) Evaluated for the treatment of psoriasis amide (human).