HOOD AND GOWN PATTERNS - Burgon Society

1 hood AND gown PATTERNSN icholas Groves 1999/2008 The idea of this scheme is to make a hood or gown pattern instantly recognizable andalso easy to refer to. So, rather than have to say of the Wales bachelors simple shape ,we simply say [s5]. They are not completely exhaustive: , I have put the gowns forCambridge MusD and St Andrews doctors as one, as they look the same, and I have notdistinguished between the various versions of the full hood with square cape (some havethe cowl as long as, or longer than, the cape; others have the cowl stopping above thebase of the cape): all are [f1], except Glasgow, which is distinctive. When I first drew thisup, I was relying on Shaw s 1962 book; additions were from Smith, hence some of theoddities of hoods (those with cowl only) are designated [s]; full (those with cape and cowl)are [f]; a third category is [a], deriving from the Aberdeen shape, of cape only, and doesaway with the ambiguity whereby it is sometimes called simple and sometime full.

2 (Thiscategory includes various other shapes as well.) The commonest version is [a1], which isthe CNAA version of the Aberdeen shape, with a straight-sided cape; the true Aberdeenshape has developed a pear-shaped gowns, the BA styles are[b], MA styles are [m], undergraduate styles [u], anddoctors robes are [d]. This includes the flap-collar gown [d4], as it difficult to see whichof the other categories it belongs to; also, with a few exceptions (London , etc) it isconfined to doctoral gowns assume a horizontal slit; if there is an inverted-T armhole, this must bespecified. Thus, the CNAA masters wore [m10] with inverted- T armhole .SIMPLE HOODSs1: Oxford simple/plains2: Burgons3: Belfasts4: Edinburghs5: Wales bachelorss6: Leicester bachelorss7: Leedss8: Sussexs9: Manchesters10: Astons11: Glasgow Caledonians12: KCL HOODSf1: Cambridgef2: Dublinf3: Londonf4: Durham doctorsf5: Oxford doctorsf6: Durham BAf7: Durham BCL etcf8: Edinburgh DDf9: Glasgowf10: St Andrewsf11: Warham Guildf12: KCL masters etcABERDEEN HOODSa1: Aberdeen/CNAAa2: Leicester mastersa3: Kenta4: East Angliaa5: Leicester doctorsa6: DundeeBA GOWNSb1: Oxford BAb2: Cambridge BAb3: Cambridge MB etcb4: London BAb5: Durham BAb6: Wales BAb7: Bath BAb8: Imperial College diplomasMASTERS GOWNSm1: Oxford MAm2: Cambridge MAm3: Dublin MAm4: Wales MAm5: London MAm6: Manchester MAm7: Leeds MAm8: Leicester MAm9: Bristol MAm10: basic masterm11.

3 Lancaster MAm12: St Andrews/Glasgow MAm13: Aberdeen MAm14: Open University (all degrees)m15: Warwick MAm16: Bath MAm17: Sussex MAm18: Manchester newm19: King s LondonDOCTORS ROBESd1: Cambridge/Londond2: Oxfordd3: Cambridge MusD/St Andrewsd4: Oxford lay/gimp gown (solicitor)d5: Oxford convocation habitd6: Sussex doctorsd7: Aston (all degrees)d8: Cambridge DD GOWNSu1: Cambridge basic (King s, etc)*u2: Oxford scholaru3: Londonu4: Durhamu5: Oxford commoneru6: Sussex.*Other Cambridge gowns are described as beingvariants on [u1] or [u3].