SEAMS DRAWINGS - INDEX

1 AMERICAN EFIRD, #SeamPg. #Attach & Edgestitch (usually 301 stitch)SSae5 LSar5 SSd6 LSl5 SSc6 SSv6 BSe2 LSa4 BSd2 LSb4 BSb2 SSbc6 BSc2 EFh 2 BSa2 EFu 3 BSg2 EFj 3 BSj2 EFp 3 Binding (selvedge edge binding - 301 or 401)BSa2 EFy 3 Bolt-end seaming (501 - single thread overedge)FSf5 EFz 3 Butt seam & tape - generally 301 lockstitchSSf6 Making Strap or Belt (2 needle - 2 piece)EFad 3 Centerplait (Cut-on centerplait - 401/ 301 stitch)EFv 2 Making Strap or Belt (2 needle - 2 piece)EFn 3 Centerplait (Set-on - generally 401 stitch)LSm4 Making Straps, Belts (hidden stitch w interlining)SSaz6 Cord seam only - generally 301 or 401 stitchLSq (b)4 LSd4 Coverseaming only (straddle stitch - 406 stitch)SSh (b)6 Pocket Set (hem & set front pocket - jeans)SSl6 Crotch seam (Flatseaming with 607 stitch)FSa5 Pocket Set (patch pkt. - 2 operations)LSs4 Crotch seam (Flatlock seaming with 606 stitch)LSa4 Runstitch & Topstitch - generally 301 stitchSSe5 Crotch seam on Jeans - usually 301 stitchLSas4 Seam & Cord Seam LSq4 Darting (panel not cut - generally 301 stitch)OSf5 Seam & Topstitch SeamLSq 4 OSa5 Seam with PipingSSk5 SSt6 Seam with Piping & TopstitchSSaw5 LSa4 Seam with Piping & TopstitchSSav5 SSj5 Seaming & CoverseamingSSh6 SSw6 Seaming (1st part of 2 part operation)SSa5 LSc4 Seaming (General)SSa5 FSa 5 Seaming then Taping SeamSSag6 FSa5 Seaming with Stay TapeSSab5 SSae5 Serging - generally with 503, 504 or 505 stitchEFd 3 SSa5 Sleeve Set (2 operations)LSr4 SSp6 Stripes attaching - 2 needle - either 301 or 401 SSat6 SSn5 Taping Edge - generally 301 SSaa5 EFe 3 Taping only - 2nd part of 2 part operationSSag (b)6 EFf 3 Topstitch only - 2nd part of 2 part operationSSe (b)

2 5 EFg 3 Waistbanding (1 piece - binding - jeans)BSc2 EFq3 Waistbanding (1 piece)LSk4 LSn4 Waistbanding (2 piece band)LSg4 EFa (2 piece w interlining)LSj4 EFc 2 Waistbanding (with Elastic - 3 or 4 needle)SSt6 EFm 2 Waistbanding (with Elastic - 406 / 407 stitch)LSa4 EFl 2 Waistbanding (with "stitch-in-a-ditch" topstitching)BSf mod2 EFr 3 Yoking (1 operation - w folder)LSe4 EFb2 Yoking (1 operation - wo folder)LSf4 EFa2 Yoking (2 operations)SSq6 LSz4 Mock Felled SeamSSw6 Making Strap or Belt (1 needle)Making Strap or Belt (1 needle)Making Strap or Belt (1 needle)Patch Pocket Setting - 301 stitchLining Cuffs for Dress ShirtsMaking Belt Loops (for jeans, chinos)Making SpaghettiMaking Strap or Belt (1 needle)Lap Seaming - top edge turned underLap SeamingJoining pliesJoining Bib to OverallSEAMS DRAWINGS - INDEXBy OperationsBy OperationsJoining Bib to OverallBag Seaming - 401 Bagging Welt Pockets on Trousers (usually 301)Binding (2 needle - clean finish - 301 or 401)Binding (2 needle - selvedge edge - 301 or 401)Binding (bottom coverstitch - 406 stitch)Binding (clean finish - usually 301)Binding (coverstitch - 602 or 605 )Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations)Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations)Deco StitchingElastic attaching - 3 or 4 needle 401 stitchElastic attaching - 406 or 407 stitch - underwearFacing to front with ZipperFelling (Mock Felled Seam)Felling or felled seam (2 or 3 needle 401 stitch)Flatlock seaming (with 606 stitch)Flatseaming (with 607 stitch)General SeamingFrench SeamHem Seaming (clean finish)Hem Seaming (raw edges)

3 Hem SergingHem with ElasticHem with Elastic (2 needle)Hem with Elastic (2 needle)Hem with PipingHemming - 2 Ndl. hemming on knitsHemming - blindhemming w overedgeHemming (selvedge edge)Join & Tape Front (flatseamer)Hemming - blindstitch hemming (clean finish)Hemming - blindstitch hemming (serged or pinked)Hemming - Tunneled Elastic (2 needle)Hemming (clean finish)Page 1 of 6 AMERICAN EFIRD, ISO 4916 CommonSeam751a ISO 4916 CommonDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRequ irementsDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRe quirementsBSa Carpets, etc. with selvedge edge binding1) Specify the Binding finished hidden in seam lineBSf mod"Stitch in a Ditch" - Topstitching Waistband with stitch line on top of previous seam ) May require special PF with Guide so stitch is totally hiddenBSa collarettes & Sleeve Binding on Undershirts, etc. Usually sewn with a 602 or 605 coverstitch1) Specify the needle spacing if 602 or 605 stitch is used; 2) specify the Binding finished in 2 Clean Finish Binding1) Specify width of collarettes on T Shirts; binding legs and fly on knit briefs, etc.

4 Usually sewn with a 406 bottom coverstitch1) Specify the needle spacing if 406 stitch is used (Ex: 1/8", 3/16"); 2) specify the Binding finished in two Clean Finish Binding1) Specify the width of the binding. Example: 1/2" Binding. setting sleeve facings to shirts, piping edges of outerwear, etc. Can be sewn with a 301 lockstitch or 401 Chainstitch1) Specify the width of the binding. Example: 1/2" Binding. 2) Requires a binding on setting waistbands to jeans, etc. Can be sewn with a 401 chainstitch or 301 lockstitch1) Specify needle spacing; and 2) Specify the width of the binding. (Example: 1- 3/8" and 1- 5/8" Binding.) 3) Requires a binding with selvedge edge binding on Outerwear1) Specify the needle spacing; and 2) Width binding. Example: 3/8" needle spacing and 1/4" Binding. 3) Requires a binding folder. BSe and binding on Outerwear1) Specify the needle spacing; and 2) Width binding.

5 (Example: 3/8" needle spacing and 1/4" Binding.) 3) Requires a binding folder. EFa Selvedge Edge Shirt Front1) Specify width of HemEFl Hemming Dresses, Slacks, Coats, Bedspreads. Generally sewn with 103 blindstitch1) Specify Width Hem2 Ndl. HemEFa Tee Shirts, Polo Shirts, etc. Generally sewn with a 406 ) Specify width of hem; and 2) Needle Spacing. (Ex. 1" hem with 1/4" needle spacing).Belt LoopsEFh Making Belt Loops for Jeans and Casual Pants, Shorts, Etc. Usually sewn with 406 ) Specify needle Spacing & 2) Width of Belt Loop. (Ex. 1/4" needle spacing and 3/8" width belt loops) 3) Requires belt loop Finish HemEFb Shirts, Jeans, Shorts, ) Specify width of hem. 2) Generally a hemming folder is required or a hemming HemEFm Hemming Dresses, Slacks, Coats, Bedspreads. Generally sewn with 103 ) Specify Width HemBlindhemmingEFc bottoms of Tee Shirts, Undershirts, etc. Usually sewn with a 503 ) Specify width Hem.

6 (Ex. 1" hem); 2) Generally a hemming guide is Cut-on Centerplait. Generally sewn with 2 rows of 401 stitch. (See also LSm - set-on centerplait)1) Specity needle spacing; and 2) Width centerplait. (Ex. 1" needle spacing & 1 1/2" centerplait. 3) Requires centerplait 2 of 6 AMERICAN EFIRD, ISO 4916 CommonSeam751a ISO 4916 CommonDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRequ irementsDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRe quirementsSergingEFd Pants Panels, Flys, Facings, ) Specify width Bite. (Ex. 3/16")Making SpaghettiEFu straps. The stitch is hidden and not ) Specify with of & HemEFe Serging edges of napkins, sheer curtains, ) Specify width Bite. (Ex. 3/32") 2) A hemming is straps or belts with clean ) Specify with of & insertEFf and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties, ) Specify the width of hemEFn straps or belts with clean ) Specify needle spacing; and 2) Specify with of and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties, ) Specify the needle spacing; and 2) Specify the width of hem.

7 (Ex. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem.) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic straps or belts with clean ) Specify with of and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties, ) Specify the needle spacing; and 2) Specify the width of hem. (Ex. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem.) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic straps or belts with clean finish with ) Specify with of ElasticEFr and Insert Elastic to Infants Panties, ) Specify the needle spacing; and 2) Specify the width of hem. (Ex. 1/4" needle spacing and 1/2" width hem.) 3) Requires hemming folder & elastic straps or belts with clean ) Specify with of straps or belts with clean ) Specify with of 3 of 6 AMERICAN EFIRD, ISO 4916 CommonSeam751a ISO 4916 CommonDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRequ irementsDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRe quirementsLap SeamingLSa knitted cuffs - generally sewn with a coverstitch - 605 or 6071) A seaming guide or trimmer is used to keep the edges even.

8 2) Specify Needle Spacing. ( " ndl spacing)Attaching ElasticLSa Elastic to panties or briefs - 406 or 407 stitch; Attaching knitted cuffs - generally sewn with a coverstitch - 605 or 6071) A seaming guide or trimmer is used to keep the edges even. 2) Specify Needle Spacing. ( 1/4" ndl spacing)LSb as common as LSq where the piece is attached and then corded or ) Specify the dimension from stitching to edge of top ply. Example: 1/8" & Cord SeamLSq on jeans; Chinos; Jackets, ) 1st Operation - specify seam width; 2) 2nd Operation - specify number of needles (1, 2, 3) and needle SeamLSc Jeans, Shirts, Jackets, etc. Generally with a two or three needle 401 Chainstitch1) Specify needle spacing & seam width. (Ex: 1/4 needle spacing w 3/8" seam width). 2) A felling folder with correct capacity is required. LSk on Pajamas; Making Rod Curtains & Shower Curtains, ) Specify needle spacing and 2) Tape ) A folder combining a turn down folder and strip folder is Pocket SettingLSd setting patch pockets, flaps, pocket facings, with a 301 Lockstitch 1) Specify margin (example: 1/16" or 3/32").

9 2) A pressure foot with a yielding section is used to maintain a uniform margin from the stitch to the piece a Waistband to Chinos or Work Pants1) Specify the needle spacing; 2) width of ; 3) A folder consisting of an upper strip folder and lower strip folder is required. Patch Pocket setting large patch pockets on Suit Coats, Overcoats and Jackets1) 1st Operation - highly skilled operation; 2) Specify margin (example: 1/16" or 3/32"). Two piece a Waistband to Chinos or Work Pants1) Specify the needle spacing; 2) width of ; 3) A folder consisting of an upper strip folder with guide for interlining, and lower strip folder is required. YokingLSe yokes to back on Shirts or Blouses in one operation. Not as common as ) Specify margin (example: 1/16" or 3/32"); 2) A folder consisting of upper and lower scrolls are Seaming yokes to back on Shirts or Blouses in one ) Specify margin from stitch line to edge (example: 1/16" or 3/32") Set-On Center PlaitLSm Set-On Centerplaits to Shirts and Blouses1) Specify Needle Spacing (Ex.

10 1"); 2) Specify width of Centerplait (Ex. 1 1/2") 3) Requires a Folder with Top Strip Folder with LsasCrotch Seaming on Jeans & Chinos1) Specify needle spacing - (Ex. 1/4")LSn Not front pockets on jeans1) Facing should be serged prior to being & & Taping Fronts of Knit Briefs & Thermal Underwear1) Generally done on a 607 Flatseaming machine with or with the upper spreader thread. 2) Requires an upper Taping Sleeves on Dress Shirts or Blouses1) 1st Operation - specify the seam width - a folder may be required; 2) 2nd Operation - specify topstitch 4 of 6 AMERICAN EFIRD, ISO 4916 CommonSeam751a ISO 4916 CommonDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRequ irementsDrawingNumberNumberApplicationRe quirementsLSl the Bib to Pants of Bib Overall in 1 ) Needle Spacing and 2) Strip width are Underwear, Fleese, Exercisewear, etc. Generally sewn with a 607 Joining the Bib to Pants of Bib Overall in 1 ) Needle Spacing and 2) Strip width are End SeamingFSf Bolt-End Seaming with a 501 StitchSewing DartsOSf panel on Slacks, Chinos, Blouses, ) Specify width of Dart and length.