Technical Information Successful dyeing of polyester ...

1 Successful dyeing ofpolyester/elastane blends withDispersol and Palanil dyesTechnical InformationEFT/TS 181 March 2000 Colorants = Registered trademark ofBASF Aktiengesellschaft1 Successful dyeing ofpolyester/elastane blendswith Dispersol and Palanil dyesCompact Elastane2 Elastane fibres are: widely used to improve fit and comfort of underwear, sportswear andouterwear formed from a synthetic polymer containing at least 85% by weight ofsegmented polyurethane generally based on polyether soft segments hydrophobic and open-structured with high affinity for disperse dyesO = C = N -- CH2 -- N = C = O + HO CH2 CH2 CH2 CH2 - O n OH O = C = N N = C = O hardsegmenthardsegment+DiaminePolyester/ Elastane dyeing Problems3 dyeing polyester /elastane at 130 CPermanent drawing of elastane fibreLoss of stretch recovery powerElastane fibres have higher affinity for disperse dyes than do polyester fibresHeavy staining of elastane fibresPoor colour fastness of dyed polyester /elastane fabricsCareful choice of preparation chemicals dyes dyeing process machinery with minimum tensionis essential for producing high quality dyed fabricsLLLLJJC ompact Elastane - Preparation for dyeing4 polyester /Elastane Fabrics

2 Batchwise Preparation30 Cwater only20 minutes80 g/l Kieralon MFB1 g/l Lufibrol MSDpH 3 - 4followed by 5 minute overflow rinse at 80 C,5 minute overflow rinse at ambient temperatureLufibrol MSD can be omitted if soft water is usedStability of removed silicone oils emulsion is highest at pH 3-4 Elastane yarns are lubricated with a protective film of 2-5% silicone oil forefficient fabric constructionEfficient removal of silicone oils before dyeing is important to: reduce disperse dye stain on elastane fibres reduce risk of spotting and staining during dyeing reduce smoking during finishing reduce migration of disperse dyes during storage of dyed fabrics Kieralon MFB, used at acid pH, is an efficient scouring system for oilremovalCompact Elastane5 Disperse dyes dyed on polyester /elastane blends C80 C90 C100 C110 C120 C130 C30 min at130 CPolyesterElastaneElastaneMigration test.

3 30 minutes at 130 C, pH Yellow Brown C-VS 300M&S C4A (50 C), rinsed only dyeingsDispersol Red C-VS 300 Dispersol Navy C-VS 300 Polyestermigrated preferentially dye the elastane migrate slowly from elastane to stain heavily in washing testsSecondarycelluloseacetate(Dicel)Ble achedunmercerisedcottonNylon (Terylene)Acrylic(Courtelle) MULTIFIBRE TEST FABRIC very little dye migrates from elastane to polyester after 30 minutes at 130 C in blank dyebath disperse dyes build-up preferentially on elastane in a dyebath containing both polyester and elastane fibres disperse dyes on elastane have poor wet fastnessDisperse Dye Stain on Elastane Fibres6 Reduction clearingof dyed polyester /elastane fabrics under alkalineconditions is essential to: optimise the wet fastness improve the storage fastness optimise the shade stability to post heat settingDisperse dyesvary greatly in ease of removal from elastaneDye Selectionshould aim to produce, after reduction clearing: little or no disperse dye on elastane (ideal) disperse dye stain on-tone with polyester dyeing (second best)Dispersol Yellow C-VS 300 Palanil Yellow E-3G 200 Dispersol Crimson SFDispersol Red C-VS 300 Dispersol Blue XFPalanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFBeforereductionclearingAfterreduct ionclearingReduction Clear3-4 g/lHydrosulfite Conc.

4 BASF4-8 ml/lcaustic soda 38 B g/lCyclanon PE-Jet20 minutes at 80 C Compact Elastane7 dyeing temperatureshould take into account: source and stability of elastane yarns construction of the fabric dyeing machinery available colour fastness neededDyeing polyester /elastane fabricsat reduced dyeing temperatures( 115 C) will minimise loss of stretch recovery power, but will result in: reduced colour fastness reduced shade reproducibility and more shading additions poor coverage of polyester yarn variations (increased barr ) reduced colour yield danger of shade change on post heat settingDyeing temperature for polyester /elastane is often a compromiseDye and Process Selection81. dyeing at 115 CControlled Coloration of polyester /elastane blends with good shadereproducibility at 115 C is possible with:Palanil E dyes pale to medium shadesDispersol C-VS dyes medium to heavy Controlled ColorationOn-tone build-up.

5 Recipe % Palanil Yellow E-3G % Palanil Red E-BF % Palanil Blue E-R 150 Recipe % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Red C-VS % Palanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF70 C80 C90 C100 C110 C115 C15 min115 C30 min115 C45 min115 CRecipe 1 Recipe all lead to:.. and stability to heat setting .. yellower4 Best achievable Right-First-Time performance colour measurements on the above dyeingsCompact Elastane - dyeing at 115 Colour fastnessGood washing to 50 C washing and to perspiration can be achieved byefficient reduction clearing of all shades after dyeing (see pages 10 and 11 forfull application details)Secondarycelluloseacetate(Dicel) BleachedunmercerisedcottonNylon (Terylene)Acrylic(Courtelle) MULTIFIBRE TEST FABRICS econdarycelluloseacetate(Dicel)Bleachedu nmercerisedcottonNylon (Terylene)Acrylic(Courtelle) MULTIFIBRE TEST % Palanil Yellow E-3G % Palanil Red E-BF % Palanil Blue E-R % Dispersol Yellow C-VS % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Palanil Dark Blue % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Black % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Red C-VS % Palanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFOliveNavyBlackCherryOliveNavyBlack CherryC06/B2S (50 C)Alkaline Perspiration (E04)All dyeings heat-set at 190 C for 30 seconds after reduction clearingCompact Elastane - dyeing at 115 dyeing /clearing ProcessesPale/medium shades Palanil E dyes0204060-20-40-60020406080100-20-40 Yellow E-3 GBlue E-RbaRed E-BFBrilliant Blue BG-CF40 C30 - 60 minutes20 minutes70 C80 C70 C115 C1-4 g/l Setamol BL1 g/l Palatex PC1-2 g/l Palegal LPpH 4 - 5 withEulysin S or acetic acid3-4 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc.

6 BASF4-8 ml/l caustic soda 38 B g/l Cyclanon PE-Jetdisperse dyesCompact Elastane - dyeing at 115 C11 Medium/heavy shades Dispersol C-VS dyesYellow C-VSYellow Brown C-VSEB lack C-VSE/Black C-GEGreen C-VSPalanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFRed C-VSViolet C-VSRed C-4 GBlue C-VSAP alanil BrilliantBlue BG-CF0204060-20-40-60020406080100-20-40 Royal C-VSbaNavy C-VSE40 C30 - 60 minutes20 minutes70 C80 C70 C115 C1-4 g/l Setamol BL1 g/l Palatex PC1-2 g/l Palegal LPpH 4 - 5 withEulysin S or acetic acid3-4 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF4-8 ml/l caustic soda 38 B g/l Cyclanon PE-Jetdisperse dyesCompact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 C122. dyeing at 125-130 CControlled Coloration of polyester /elastane blends with good shadereproducibility and optimum wet fastness at 125-130 C with:Palanil E pale shadesDispersol C-VS medium/heavy shadesDispersol XF, SF heavy shades with highest wash Controlled ColorationOn-tone build-up.

7 Recipe % Palanil Yellow E-3G % Palanil Red E-BF % Palanil Blue E-R 150 Recipe % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Red C-VS % Palanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFRecipe % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Rubine % Dispersol Navy XF70 C80 C90 C100 C110 C120 C130 C15 min130 C30 min130 CRecipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe 3 Compact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 C1398% yellower99% yellower100% redder100% yellowerControl103% redder103% yellower108% redder112% redder91% yellower95% redder97% redder94% yellowerControl100% yellower102% redder101% redder103% redder125 C15 minutes30 minutes45 minutes130 C135 C125 C15 minutes30 minutes45 minutes130 C135 C92% redder99% redder100% redder96% redderControl104% yellower103% redder109% yellower113% yellower125 C15 minutes30 minutes45 minutes130 C135 with good time/temperature robustness.

8 Recipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe all lead to:.. and stability to heat setting .. yellower4 Best achievable Right-First-Time performanceCompact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 Colour FastnessOptimum wet fastness can be achieved by efficient reduction clearing of allshades after dyeing (see pages 15, 16 and 17 for full application details)Secondarycelluloseacetate(Dicel) BleachedunmercerisedcottonNylon (Terylene)Acrylic(Courtelle) MULTIFIBRE TEST % Palanil Yellow E-3G % Palanil Red E-BF % Palanil Blue E-R 150 Navy % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Rubine % Dispersol Navy % Dispersol Yellow C-VS % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Palanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFCherry % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Rubine % Dispersol Crimson % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Black C-VSEB lack % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Rubine % Dispersol Black % Dispersol Yellow Brown % Dispersol Red C-VS % Palanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFC06/B2S (50 C)Alkaline Perspiration (E04)

9 OliveNavyNavy 2 BlackBlack 2 CherryCherry 2 OliveNavyNavy 2 BlackBlack 2 CherryCherry 2 All dyeings heat-set at 190 C for 30 seconds after reduction clearingCompact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 dyeing /clearing proceduresPale shades Palanil E dyes0204060-20-40-60020406080100-20-40 Yellow E-3 GBlue E-RbaRed E-BFBrilliant Blue BG-CF40 C15 - 30 minutes20 minutes70 C80 C70 C125 - 130 C1-4 g/l Setamol BL1 g/l Palatex PCpH 4 - 5 withEulysin S or acetic acid3-4 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF4-8 ml/l caustic soda 38 B g/l Cyclanon PE-Jetdisperse dyesCompact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 C16 Medium/heavy shades Dispersol C-VS dyesYellow C-VSYellow Brown C-VSEB lack C-VSE/Black C-GEGreen C-VSPalanil Dark Blue 3RT-CFRed C-VSViolet C-VSRed C-4 GBlue C-VSAP alanil BrilliantBlue BG-CF0204060-20-40-60020406080100-20-40 Royal C-VSbaNavy C-VSE40 C15 - 30 minutes20 minutes70 C80 C70 C125 - 130 C1-4 g/l Setamol BL1 g/l Palatex PCpH 4 - 5 withEulysin S or acetic acid3-4 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc.

10 BASF4-8 ml/l caustic soda 38 B g/l Cyclanon PE-Jetdisperse dyesCompact Elastane - dyeing at 125-130 C17 Heavy shades with highest wash fastness Dispersol XF, SF dyes0204060-20-40-60020406080100-20-40 Flavine XF Yellow Brown XFTurquoise XFBlue XF Rubine XFN Navy XFBlack XFbaCrimson SF40 C15 - 30 minutes20 minutes70 C80 C70 C125 - 130 C1-4 g/l Setamol BL1 g/l Palatex PCpH 4 - 5 withEulysin S or acetic acid3-4 g/l Hydrosulfite Conc. BASF4-8 ml/l caustic soda 38 B g/l Cyclanon PE-Jetdisperse dyesCompact Elastane18 Compact Elastane Top TipsFor Successful dyeing of polyester /elastane fabrics lowest dyeing temperature which produces level, well penetrated dyeings low tension dyeing machinery select dyes and chemicals for Controlled Coloration efficient pre-scouring to remove silicone oils efficient reduction clearing lowest post heat-setting temperature which produces stable fabrics