Textile SPINNING - Complete Textile Solutions

1 Textile SPINNING Textile Technology knowledge series Volume II TEXCOMS Textile Solutions APRIL 21, 2019 i Table of Contents Chapter 1 Review of yarn production .. 1 1. Introduction: .. 1 Historical basis .. 1 Major developments of Textile production .. 3 Introduction to Yarns .. 4 Classification of Yarns .. 4 Staple Yarns .. 6 Continuous-Filament Yarns .. 7 Novelty Yarns .. 8 Industrial Yarns .. 8 High-Bulk Yarns .. 8 Stretch Yarns .. 8 Staple-Fibre Yarns .. 9 SPINNING Methods .. 9 Operations in Staple-Fibre SPINNING .. 10 Yarn Structure .. 11 Applications of Staple-Spun Yarns .. 12 Filament Yarns .. 14 SPINNING Methods .. 14 Polymer SPINNING Processes.

2 15 Structures of Continuous Filament Yarns .. 19 Applications of Filament Yarn .. 19 Fancy Yarns .. 19 Marl Yarn .. 19 Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn .. 20 Gimp Yarn .. 20 Diamond Yarn .. 20 Boucle Yarn .. 21 Loop Yarn .. 21 Snarl Yarn .. 22 Knop Yarn .. 22 Slub Yarn .. 23 ii Fasciated Yarn .. 23 Tape Yarn .. 24 Chainette Yarn .. 24 Chenille Yarn .. 24 Ribbon Yarns .. 25 Composite Yarns .. 25 Covered Yarns .. 25 Metallic Yarns .. 25 Staple-Fibre Yarn Manufacturing .. 26 Ring (Conventional) SPINNING .. 26 Hollow-Spindle SPINNING .. 29 Combined Systems .. 31 The Doubling System .. 31 Open-End SPINNING .. 33 Air-Jet SPINNING .. 37 The Chenille Yarn System.

3 37 Flocking .. 38 Mock Chenille .. 39 Chapter 2 Fibre to Yarn Staple Fibre SPINNING Preparation .. 40 Introduction .. 40 Preparation of Cotton and Other Short Staple Fibres .. 42 General Principles of Short Staple SPINNING .. 44 Opening and Cleaning .. 47 Factors Influencing Opening & Cleaning .. 52 The Blow Room .. 52 Blow Room Machinery .. 53 Blow Room Accessories .. 74 The Carding Process .. 76 Functions of Carding .. 77 Types of Carding Machines .. 77 Carding Action .. 79 Material Feed To the Card .. 80 The Chute Feed System .. 83 iii Card Feeding Device .. 85 Dual or Tandem Carding .. 92 The Combing Process .. 93 Comber Lap Preparation .. 95 Methods of Comber Lap Preparation.

4 96 The Combing Machine .. 99 The Drawing Process .. 102 Functions of the Draw Frame .. 102 Main Parts of the Draw Frame .. 103 The Roving Process .. 110 Functions of the Roving Frame .. 110 Main Parts of the Roving Frame .. 111 Chapter 3 The Ring SPINNING Process .. 120 Introduction .. 120 Functions of the Ring SPINNING Frame .. 121 Creel Zone .. 122 Drafting Zone .. 123 Twisting Zone .. 126 Package Winding Zone .. 131 Package Built of Ring SPINNING Frame .. 132 Use of Balloon Control Rings (BCR) .. 134 Use of Separators .. 135 Compact SPINNING .. 136 Principle of Compact SPINNING .. 137 COM4spin System of Rieter: .. 138 Suessen Elite Compact SPINNING System.

5 140 CompACT3 System of Zinser: .. 141 RoCoS-magnetic Compacting System: .. 142 Developments and limitations of ring SPINNING .. 145 Chapter 4 The Rotor SPINNING Process .. 147 Introduction .. 147 iv History of Open End SPINNING :- .. 148 General concept of open-end SPINNING .. 150 Principle of Rotor SPINNING .. 151 Basic methods of open-end SPINNING .. 152 General Cotton Fibre Considerations for Successful Open-End SPINNING : .. 168 Structure of Rotor Yarn .. 172 The processing stages .. 195 Economics of Rotor SPINNING .. 197 Chapter 5 Friction SPINNING System (DREF) .. 200 Introduction .. 200 Open-end SPINNING processes- The basic principle of yarn formation .. 201 Principle of friction SPINNING .

6 202 204 Technological relationships .. 205 DREF 2 friction SPINNING system .. 212 DREF 3 friction SPINNING system .. 216 Chapter 6 Air-Jet SPINNING .. 221 Introduction .. 221 Principle of Operation of Air Jet SPINNING .. 224 Murata MJS System: .. 231 Air-Jet Spun Yarns :.. 235 Developments in Air-Jet SPINNING .. 236 Principle of operation of MVS .. 237 The structure of vortex yarn compared to other yarns .. 240 Chapter 7 Wool 248 Overview of early stage processing .. 248 Scouring .. 248 v Carbonising .. 251 Mechanical processing of wool .. 253 The three yarn manufacturing systems .. 254 Chapter 8 Filament Yarn SPINNING .. 270 Fibre-Extrusion SPINNING .. 270 Melt - SPINNING .

7 270 Wet SPINNING .. 274 Dry SPINNING .. 276 Yarn Texturing .. 277 Bulk continuous-filament (BCF) technology: .. 279 False-Twist Texturing .. 280 Air-Jet Texturing .. 285 Bulk Continuous Fibre (BCF) 288 Twisting/Plying of Continuous-Filament Yarns .. 288 Metallised Yarns .. 291 1 Chapter 1 Review of yarn production 1. Introduction: Historical basis It is very difficult to ascertain the historical period precisely by which man first started SPINNING fibres into yarns. However, based on the archaeological evidence, we can understand that this particular skill was well practiced at least 8000 years ago. Certainly, the weaving of spun yarns was developed around 6000 BC., the approximate time around which Neolithic man began to settle in permanent dwellings and to farm and domesticate animals.

8 We can safely assume and guess that early men would have twisted a few fibres from a lock of wool into short lengths of yarn and then tied them together to make longer lengths. We term these yarns as staple-spun yarns, because the fibres used are generally known to as staple fibres. Possibly the yarn production would have been done by a set of two people working together as a team wherein one would be cleaning and SPINNING the wool, the other would be winding the yarn into a ball. As the various Textile skills developed, the idea for SPINNING continuous knotless lengths would have led them to a stick being used, maybe first for winding up the yarn and then to twist and wind up longer lengths, thereby replacing the making of short lengths tied together and needing only one operator.

9 This method of SPINNING a yarn using a dangling spindle or whorl was first developed as a handicraft and with the passage of time, it was widely practiced for processing both animal and plant fibres. The simple spindle SPINNING technique continued as the only method of making yarns for a long time. Around AD1300, the first SPINNING wheel was invented and was developed in Europe which was termed as the great wheel or one-thread wheel. The actual mechanization of yarn SPINNING took place over the period 1738 to 1825 to meet the huge rise in the demand for spun yarn resulting from the then-spectacular increase in weaving production rates with the invention of the flying shuttle (John Kay, 1733).

10 Pairs of rollers were introduced to reduce the fibre mass into a fine ribbon for twisting (Lewis Paul, 1738); spindles were grouped together on a frame to be operated by a single power source the water frame (Richard Arkwright, 1769), the SPINNING jenny (James Hargreaves, 1764 1770) and the mule (Samuel Crompton) followed by the self-acting mule by Roberts (1825). In 1830, a new method of inserting twist, known as cap SPINNING , was invented in the by Danforth. In the early 1960s, this was superseded by the ring and traveller, or ring SPINNING , which, despite other subsequent later inventions, has remained the main commercial method and is now an almost fully automated process of yarn SPINNING .