The Handcrafted Shoe Book - ShoeSchool.com

1 The Handcrafted Shoe BookShoeSchoolCompanion Guide to The Shoemaker Movie Link to Table of ContentsGo to Digital Video TheaterLink to PDF TutorialThis publication is an attempt to preserve the ancient & venerable craft of are many methods, styles, techniques of crafting footwear, this is just one way. Yearsof experience, personal skill and vision form the basis for this and any true art or hope this program shows the skill, time and energy that goes into a pair of handcraftedshoes. The Industrial Revolution replaced the village shoemaker with machine-filled factories and workers knowing only one operation of the process of shoemaking. Here wepresent the process step-by-step with simple hand tools and a treadle- powered you for your curiosity and interest in the art of ZerobnickJayne 5 FindingsHardware: Rivets, Eyelets, Speed Lacing54-57 Final Step Sub-Assembly59-60 Remove Molded Heel Counter61 Section 6 Hand LastingCement Construction63-72 Position Heel Counter73-75 Mold Toe Cap76-83 Final Steps Cement Construction84-86 Pulling Upper87-88 Hand Lasting.

2 Final Details89-94 Section 7 Bottom WorkCementing Cork Filler96-98 Developing Outsole Units99-103 Attach Midsole to Shoe104-106 Remove Shoe from Shoe Last107 Attach Outsole108-109 Section 8 FinishingSanding111-112 Apply Finish to Leather113 Insert Foot Bed and Lacing114-115 Finished Shoes116-117 Shoemaker s Apron Resume 118 Link to Digital Video TheaterTable of Contents CD #1 Table of Contents CD #2 About the Authors 124 Credits 125 Section 1 IntroductionProgram Overview5 Leather Selection6-7 Identifying Pattern Pieces8-10 Section 2 CuttingQuarter12-15 Vamp16-19 Lining20 Heel Lining21 Binding22-23 Heel Counter24-26 Insole27-28 Section 3 Sub-AssemblySkiving Heel Counter31 Molding Heel Counter32-35 Skiving Leather Pieces36-39 Prepare Lining for Stitching40-41 Section 4 StitchingStitching Lining & Binding43-44 Prepare for Folding45-47 Top Stitch Binding to Quarter48 Attach Quarter to Vamp49 Stitch Quarter to *Video *Video *Video *Video *: Requires Disk 1 in CD DriveVideo Pages Requires Disk 1 in CD Drive:Section 1 Introduction119 Section 2 Cutting120 Section 3 Sub-Assembly121 Section 4 Stitching122 Digital Video 1 IntroductionProgram OverviewLeather SelectionIdentifying Pattern Piecesp.

3 4 Section 1 IntroductionProgram OverviewStarting with a custom shoe last, a walking shoe pattern that was designed for that last, a few simple hand tools and one sewingmachine, follow the handcrafting of a pair of shoes . The shoe last, the solid form the shoe is formed over, was custom made for thecraftsman s foot. The walking shoe pattern was developed for that specific shoe last. The sewing machine is a foot-powered treadle machine that does not require these simple hand pattern for a Walking custom made Shoe a Treadle Sewing the making of this pair of the Craftsman s 5 Section 2 CuttingQuarterVampLiningHeel LiningBindingHeel CounterInsolep. 11 Section 3 Sub-AssemblySkiving Heel CounterMolding Heel CounterSkiving Leather PiecesPrepare Lining for Stitchingp. 29 Section 4 StitchingStitching Lining & BindingPrepare for FoldingTop Stitch Binding to QuarterAttach Quarter to VampStitch Quarter to Vampp. 42 Section 5 FindingsHardware: Rivets, EyeletsSpeed-LacingFinal Step Sub-AssemblyRemove Molded Heel Counterp.

4 53 Section 6 Hand LastingCement ConstructionPosition Heel CounterMold Toe CapFinal Steps Cement ConstructionPulling UpperHand Lasting Completedp. 62 Section 7 Bottom WorkCementing Cork FillerDeveloping Outsole UnitsAttach Midsole to ShoeRemove Shoe from Shoe LastAttach Outsolep. 95 Section 8 FinishingSandingApply Finish to LeatherInsert Foot Bed & LacingFinished ShoesShoemaker s Apron Resume p. 110 Note: For Optimum Viewing , Zoom Document to 100%Go to Digital Video TheaterLink to Table of Contentsp. 119 Program OverviewLeather SelectionIdentifying Pattern PiecesSection 2 CuttingSection 3 Sub AssemblySection 4 StitchingIntroduction to ProgramSection 1 IntroductionNote: For Optimum Viewing , Zoom Document to 100%Go to Digital Video TheaterLink to Table of Contentsp. 120 QuarterVampHeel LiningBindingHeel CounterInsoleSection 3 Sub AssemblySection 4 StitchingSection 1 IntroductionLaying Out Leather for CuttingSection 2 CuttingNote: For Optimum Viewing , Zoom Document to 100%Go to Digital Video TheaterLink to Table of Contentsp.

5 121 Skiving Heel CounterMolding Heel CountersSkiving Leather PiecesPrepare Lining for StitchingSection 2 CuttingSection 4 StitchingPreparation for Sub-AssemblySection 1 IntroductionSection 3 Sub-AssemblyNote: For Optimum Viewing , Zoom Document to 100%Go to Digital Video TheaterLink to Table of Contentsp. 122 Section 4 Stitching Lining & BindingPrepare for FoldingTop Stitch Binding to QuarterAttach Quarter to VampStitch Quarter to VampSection 2 CuttingSection 3 Sub AssemblySection 1 IntroductionStitching Lining & BindingStitchingThe Digital Video Theater is anInteractive User Interface withstandard digital video controls:.. Pause - Fast Forward & 2 x Double Volume Up & DownThe Digital Theater is a Windows CompatibleProgram, and is not accessible on Mac Video TheaterClick Here To Enter TheaterLink to Table of Contentsp. 123 About the AuthorsAlan ZerobnickJayne Woodwardhas a lifetime of experience as a Self-employed Designer,Master Leather Craftsman, Lastmaker, Technology Developer,and Teacher.

6 His work as a Shoe Artisan has been featuredin art museums, trade shows, craft fairs, televisiondocumentaries, national and international career in footwear began in 1960, at the age of 14, sellingshoes in a retail store, featuring women s dress shoes andleather accessories. His career as a Leather Craftsman beganin 1981, Alan founded the Tenderfoot ShoeSchool, and beganconducting hands-on workshops in order to preserve andshare the skills and knowledge of the Ancient Craft of HandMade shoes . In 1996 the name was changed , and people from all parts of the worldbegan attending the Introduction to Shoemaking Workshops .In 1997, Alan s dream of producing Custom Shoe Lasts using3D CAD/CAM Technology became a reality. The 12 yeartechnology development project ended in success andDigiLast was s vision for the future: to see the Craft of Shoemakingprosper in the 21st up in New England, once the shoe manufacturing capitalof the US. In 1981, with no market for her teaching degree,Jayne entered the footwear industry as a customer servicerepresentative with the Timberland Company.

7 Her interest andenthusiasm moved her up through the ranks to Director ofDesign - Women s 11 year period was followed by positions with GH Bass,shoe manufacturer and retailer with 250 company stores,based in Maine, and in Seattle with Weaver International,private label sourcing office for the Shoe Carnival 90 storeretail chain. In both organizations her capacity was productdevelopment manager responsible for line building, design andmaterial development, and fitting trials for men s, women sand children s joined ShoeSchool in 1995, and continues to share herknowledge and experience in the hope that she can help othersfurther their own successful careers in footwear design 124 Copyright 2002 by ShoeSchool, Port Townsend, Washington 98368, USA All Rights ReservedFor further information on the Art and Craft of Shoemaking and thecomplete Distance Learning Program go Digital Video Publication was Produced by and in the Video Studio of :ShoeSchool CommunicationsVideo ProductionVideo EditingMusicInteractive ProgrammingCD ROM Authoring & ProductionBook Layout & DesignCover DesignsVideo CameraConcept Development & ScriptSet DesignPhotographyShoeSchoolAlan ZerobnickJayne WoodwardAlan Zerobnick & Jayne Woodwar