The Physics of Ocean Waves (for physicists and surfers)
The Physics of Ocean Waves (for physicists and surfers) Michael Twardos: mtwardos@uci.edu August 31, 2004 1. ... far that what most people would consider in the bounds of the "physics of ocean waves" (and surflng). There are, indeed, alot of great physical systems that have ... surflng waves and peering down the blue wall, I seem to always be ...
Transverse vs. Longitudinal Waves Two different motions to describe in a wave: – Motion of the wave's energy – Motion of individual molecules of the wave Transverse waves → Two motions are perpendicular – Waves on a string, water surface waves Longitudinal waves → Two motions are parallel – Sound waves Waves can have both transverse and longitudinal motion
waves move faster than shorter ones. The amount of energy, E, in the wave is a function of the wave height and is proportional to: E ~ 1/8 H2. What causes waves? w A disturbing force is necessary to create waves on the ocean surface. The type of disturbing force determines the characteristics of the generated waves.
Traveling waves Waves propagate from one place to another: From source to detector Sound from an instrument to ear Cell phone to cell tower and vice versa - E/M waves Water waves - a disturbance in the water moves outward. y(x,t)=y m sin(kx−ωt) A traveling wave can be represented as any function of kx-wt such that kx-wt is a constant.
Key for Waves Unit 2, Worksheet 5 1. The illustration below shows a series of transverse waves. Label each part in the space provided. a. crest b. wavelength c. amplitude d. trough e. amplitude f f. wavelength g. equilibrium position Fill in the blanks: 2. Waves carry energy from one place to another.
The Electromagnetic Spectrum—Answer Key Radio Waves • Longest wavelength lowest frequency • Wavelength range: 106m to 1m • Usually described by their frequency • Different types of radio waves (from high f to low f are: RADAR, CB (Citizen’s Band), FM, …
AP1 Waves Difficulty: 1 Page 3 3. A transverse wave travels in medium X with a speed of 800 m/s and a wavelength of 4 m. The wave then moves into medium Y, traveling with a speed of 1600 m/s.
Chapter II-5 — Waves II-58 An array in a standard language has a name (array0 in this case) and a number of values.We can reference a particular value using an index. A wave also has a name (wave0 in this case) and data values.It differs from the array in that it has two indi- ces.
waves it is the water molecules. The water is compressed and expanded to cause the up and down (oscillating) motion. All waves do this with molecules they travel through. Two Types of Waves Speed and Wavelength Waves can go through things: waves go through water; light waves can go through your skin; sound waves can goes through walls.
Waves and Sound What is a wave? What are the main properties of waves? What two things do all waves transport? Waves in Water Vibration What sets waves into motion? How does the vibration frequency relate to the frequency of the wave created? DEMO - Harmonic Oscillator Waves are a type of disturbance that can propagate or travel.
Waves and Sound AP Physics B. ... A MEDIUM is the substance that all SOUND WAVES travel through and need to have in order to move. Two types of Waves The first type of wave is called Longitudinal. Longitudinal Wave - A fixed point will move parallel with the wave motion 2 areas