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Water Waves - MIT

Deep water waves Intermediate depth Shallow water waves or short waves or wavelength or long waves kh >> 1 Need to solve!2 = gktanhkh kh << 1 (h >» ‚=2) given!;h for k (h=‚ <» 1=20 in practice) (given k;h for! - easy!)!2 = gk (a) Use tables or graphs (e.g.JNN flg.6.3)!2 »= gk ¢kh ! ! = p gh k ‚ = g 2… T2!2 = gktanhkh = gk 1 ‚ = p ...

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