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1. Ocean Wave Spectra - MIT OpenCourseWare
ocw.mit.eduFeb 24, 2005 · Most ocean wave spectra take a standard form following the mathematical formulation: S + = B A 5 w e-/w4 (3) w The frequency peak is called the modal frequency. The area under the spectrum is the zeroth moment, M o , which may be defined in terms of the significant wave height. For a