ECOLOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS, PARAMETERS AND …

1 1 ECOLOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS, PARAMETERS AND TESTING FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY A TREATISE BY Ver : June 2014 2 PREFACE This is essentially a compilation of information from various sources, both personal and published. A very large number of books, magazines, articles and the Internet were consulted for the preparation of this booklet and it is not possible for us to acknowledge all of these individually here. The main source of information however remains our own research and work over the past several years on ECOLOGICAL Testing for the European market.

2 It includes our own experimental findings and experiences of over 125,000 samples tested so far at our laboratory in India. Information has also been gathered from some of the retailers and brands whom we test for and we thank them for their support. This information would be useful to all engaged in the export of textile merchandise to the EU and the US. Information given in this booklet is given in good faith and for information of the reader. We cannot accept any liability arising from the same.

3 In the interest of the scientific community and knowledge sharing in the textile field, we would whole-heartedly welcome suggestions, comments and information regarding errors and omissions that may be noticed. Please contact us at: with your comments. Rahul Bhajekar Managing Director 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 3 INTRODUCTION ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------- 5 TYPICAL ECO REQUIREMENTS IN EUROPE ---------------------------------------- ------------------ 6 BACKGROUND ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 6 BUYERS REQUIREMENTS / RSLS

4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 7 EU REGULATIONS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ----------- 9 GERMAN REGULATIONS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - 10 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LISTS PARAMETERS IN DETAIL --------------------------------- 11 BANNED AMINES IN AZO DYES ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 11 ALLERGENIC DISPERSE DYES ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- 14 CARCINOGENIC DYES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------- 15 NAVY BLUE (BLUE COLOURANT) ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 16 PENTACHLOROPHENOL (PCP) & TETRACHLOROPHENOL (TECP) --------------------------------------- 18 ORTHOPHENYLPHENOL (OPP)

5 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 19 HEAVY METAL RESIDUES / TOTAL HEAVY METAL CONTENT ---------------------------------------- ---- 20 HEAVY METALS, EXTRACTABLE ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 20 TOTAL HEAVY METALS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 21 NICKEL RELEASE IN EXTENDED WEAR ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- 23 ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- 24 CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 25 FORMALDEHYDE

6 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------ 26 GLYOXAL ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 27 ALKYL PHENOL ETHOXYLATES ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 28 FLUOROCARBONS PFOS AND PFOA ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- 29 PHTHALATES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 31 POLYVINYL CHLORIDE (PVC) ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- 32 PH OF AQUEOUS EXTRACT--------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 33 RESIDUAL PESTICIDES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 34 FLAME RETARDANTS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------- 36 POLYCHLORINATED BIPHENYLS (PCBS) AND POLYCHLORINATED TERPHENYLS (PCTS)

7 --------------- 37 POLYAROMATIC HYDROCARBONS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 38 DIOXINS & FURANS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 40 CHLORINATED PARAFFINS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - 42 DIMETHYL FORMAMIDE (DMF) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 43 DIMETHYL FUMARATE (DMFU) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 44 ACRYLAMIDE ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 45 OTHERS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- 45 CPSIA LEAD AND PHTHALATE COMPLIANCE ---------------------------------------- ------------ 46 LEGISLATION ON LEAD (SEC.)

8 101): ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 46 4 LEGISLATION ON PHTHALATES (SEC. 108): ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- 47 REACH & SVHCS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------ 48 REACH SVHC CANDIDATE LIST AS ON 16 JUNE 2014 ---------------------------------------- ---------- 50 GREENPEACE: DIRTY LAUNDRY REPORTS AND JOINT ROAD MAP --------------------------- 59 ECO LABELS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ----------------- 60 GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GOTS)---------------------------------- ----------------- 61 ADSORBABLE ORGANIC HALOGENS (AOX)

9 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ 61 BIODEGRADABILITY & BIOACCUMULATION ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ 63 TOXICITY ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 65 AQUATIC TOXICITY ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 65 ACUTE TOXICITY: ORAL (LD 50) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 66 THE EU ECO LABEL: THE FLOWER ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- 67 CRITERIA ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 67 INTRODUCTION ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------- 67 FOR WHICH PRODUCTS CAN AN APPLICATION BE MADE?

10 ---------------------------------------- ---------- 68 WHO CAN APPLY FOR ECOLABEL? ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 68 APPLYING FOR THE FLOWER ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- 68 PROCEDURE FOR ASSESSING THE APPLICATION ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 69 5 INTRODUCTION The history of fabrics is as old as the history of civilization itself. The use of Wool, Silk, Cotton and Linen has been known to exist since time immemorial.