ECOLOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS, PARAMETERS AND …

1 1 ECOLOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS, PARAMETERS AND TESTING FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY A TREATISE BY Ver : June 2014 2 PREFACE This is essentially a compilation of information from various sources, both personal and published. A very large number of books, magazines, articles and the Internet were consulted for the preparation of this booklet and it is not possible for us to acknowledge all of these individually here. The main source of information however remains our own research and work over the past several years on ECOLOGICAL Testing for the European market. It includes our own experimental findings and experiences of over 125,000 samples tested so far at our laboratory in India. Information has also been gathered from some of the retailers and brands whom we test for and we thank them for their support.

2 This information would be useful to all engaged in the export of textile merchandise to the EU and the US. Information given in this booklet is given in good faith and for information of the reader. We cannot accept any liability arising from the same. In the interest of the scientific community and knowledge sharing in the textile field, we would whole-heartedly welcome suggestions, comments and information regarding errors and omissions that may be noticed. Please contact us at: with your comments. Rahul Bhajekar Managing Director 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 3 INTRODUCTION ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------- 5 TYPICAL ECO REQUIREMENTS IN EUROPE ---------------------------------------- ------------------ 6 BACKGROUND ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 6 BUYERS REQUIREMENTS / RSLS ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 7 EU REGULATIONS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ----------- 9 GERMAN REGULATIONS.

3 10 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LISTS PARAMETERS IN DETAIL --------------------------------- 11 BANNED AMINES IN AZO DYES ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 11 ALLERGENIC DISPERSE DYES ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- 14 CARCINOGENIC DYES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------- 15 NAVY BLUE (BLUE COLOURANT) ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 16 PENTACHLOROPHENOL (PCP) & TETRACHLOROPHENOL (TECP) --------------------------------------- 18 ORTHOPHENYLPHENOL (OPP) ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 19 HEAVY METAL RESIDUES / TOTAL HEAVY METAL CONTENT ---------------------------------------- ---- 20 HEAVY METALS.

4 EXTRACTABLE ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ 20 TOTAL HEAVY METALS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 21 NICKEL RELEASE IN EXTENDED WEAR ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- 23 ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- 24 CHLORINATED ORGANIC CARRIERS ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 25 FORMALDEHYDE ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------ 26 GLYOXAL ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 27 ALKYL PHENOL ETHOXYLATES ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- 28 FLUOROCARBONS PFOS AND PFOA ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- 29 PHTHALATES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 31 POLYVINYL CHLORIDE (PVC) ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- 32 PH OF AQUEOUS EXTRACT--------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 33 RESIDUAL PESTICIDES ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------ 34 FLAME RETARDANTS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------- 36 POLYCHLORINATED BIPHENYLS (PCBS) AND POLYCHLORINATED TERPHENYLS (PCTS)

5 --------------- 37 POLYAROMATIC HYDROCARBONS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 38 DIOXINS & FURANS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 40 CHLORINATED PARAFFINS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - 42 DIMETHYL FORMAMIDE (DMF) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 43 DIMETHYL FUMARATE (DMFU) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 44 ACRYLAMIDE ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- 45 OTHERS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- 45 CPSIA LEAD AND PHTHALATE COMPLIANCE ---------------------------------------- ------------ 46 LEGISLATION ON LEAD (SEC.)

6 101): ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 46 4 LEGISLATION ON PHTHALATES (SEC. 108): ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- 47 REACH & SVHCS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------ 48 REACH SVHC CANDIDATE LIST AS ON 16 JUNE 2014 ---------------------------------------- ---------- 50 GREENPEACE: DIRTY LAUNDRY REPORTS AND JOINT ROAD MAP --------------------------- 59 ECO LABELS ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ----------------- 60 GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GOTS)---------------------------------- ----------------- 61 ADSORBABLE ORGANIC HALOGENS (AOX) ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ 61 BIODEGRADABILITY & BIOACCUMULATION ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ 63 TOXICITY ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 65 AQUATIC TOXICITY ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- --------- 65 ACUTE TOXICITY.

7 ORAL (LD 50) ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- 66 THE EU ECO LABEL: THE FLOWER ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------- 67 CRITERIA ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 67 INTRODUCTION ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------- 67 FOR WHICH PRODUCTS CAN AN APPLICATION BE MADE? ---------------------------------------- ---------- 68 WHO CAN APPLY FOR ECOLABEL? ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- 68 APPLYING FOR THE FLOWER ---------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- 68 PROCEDURE FOR ASSESSING THE APPLICATION ---------------------------------------- -------------------- 69 5 INTRODUCTION The history of fabrics is as old as the history of civilization itself.

8 The use of Wool, Silk, Cotton and Linen has been known to exist since time immemorial. These natural fibres have been produced, processed and traded in all ancient civilizations. Many other natural fibres were also used by past generations. Most modern fibres have a history that is only about 60 years old. For example, the first synthetic fibre produced was polyamide (Nylon) in 1938. Initially used for stockings, its applications expanded to parachute cloth, shirting, bed linen, underclothing, carpets, tyres and belts. Acrylic was produced in 1948 and is popularly used in knitwear, carpets and pile fabrics. Polyester was commercially produced in 1953 and today has become the largest synthetic fibre being produced. By itself and blended, its applications are wide spread in domestic and industrial applications.

9 Other fibres being used today are polypropylene, polyethylene, polyurethane, aramids etc. Increased awareness of the need to protect the environment and ecosystems is bringing changes to all spheres of human life. The interested parties in the environmental protection policies are no longer just environmental groups, consumers and producers but also retailers, exporters, importers, traders, technological societies and national, regional & international authorities. The large scale use of synthetic chemicals including dyes, in textile processing is not very old, going back only the last 50 or 60 years since the discovery of the first synthetic dye in 1856. Rapid industrialization and widespread use of many synthetic chemical compounds has led to many devastating realizations.

10 Effects of their toxicity are only now being felt. Previously unknown allergies are being attributed to the use of chemical finishes on apparel. Consumers and retailers now take purchasing decisions not just on price and quality but also health, environmental and social aspects associated with the products themselves. The scope of this new requirement is through the entire life cycle of the product. Having used synthetic chemicals extensively in the past few decades, not surprisingly, Europe has been at the forefront of eco-awareness and regulations with eco considerations. Finland was one of the first countries to have a regulation for the presence of Formaldehyde. In 1992, Germany banned the use of metallic components in all consumer articles, which contained Nickel. Soon thereafter, followed restrictions on Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and Azo Dyes that liberated Banned Amines.