“Kick Out” - Meyers Manx

1 kick -Out (strictly street) Build Instructions Thank you for purchasing one of our new kick -Out Manx s. After being out of production for nearly 30 years, in 1999 we reintroduced the world famous Classic Manx signature series (limited edition of 100), in 2002 and 2005 respectively introduced the new Manxter 2+2 and Manxter DualSport, and now the newest Traditional kick -Out and kick -Out Although often copied, the fact remains that the Meyers Manx became the benchmark for all others. The Manx tremendous universal appeal both on and off the street has propelled it into an astronomical orbit. Well known around the world, our cars have reached as far as Europe, Australia, Asia and South America. When most people talk about their fiberglass dune buggies, they commonly (and often times) misrepresent them as a Meyers Manx.

2 Why is that? As misguided as some are, they immediately recall the most famous of buggies ever built and desire to claim some of the history, nostalgia and quality that has been the core of the Meyers Manx heritage. As the best Meyers Manx ever, this kick -Out (strictly street) kit reflects a 45 year legacy of constant design improvement, with vastly increased accessibility to both mechanicals and storage. The Meyers Manx kick -Out uses the same main body as the Traditional kick -Out, but that is where the similarity ends. The Meyers Manx kick -Out is a kit that is all about street-orientation, ignoring the need for big fat off-road wheels and tires, ground clearance and skid plates. The is intended to be more of a ground-hugging highway scoot. With its curved windshield, buried headlights, rear deck headrests, dual-hooped roll bar and vented sidepods, the illusion is complete.

3 Because of the complexity of the hood, windshield, dash area assembly, we decided to pre-assemble this part of the kit for you, less trauma for you, means less phones ringing for us. Enjoy! The kick -Out Manx that you have purchased will potentially become a collectible in that this will possibly be my last buggy design, hence the name - kick Out: A surfing maneuver one makes at the end of the ride where he goes up and over the wave to finish with a bit of style and grace. As in all of the Meyers Manx collection of cars the kick -Out has the unmistakable lineage of being hand-crafted and is the manifestation of integrity, ingenuity and heritage. Remember: if it doesn t say Meyers , it s not really a Manx! Thank you for your patronage! Bruce Meyers Step #1 Body Mounting Lower the body down and assure that the inner lip captures the pan.

4 Cut short wood sticks to jam between the tunnel and the body. These will force the body outwards for a good fit before drilling the body mounting bolts Step #2 - Hood Assy Part #mxtr-1004 The earliest Meyers Manx s had opening hoods, a feature much admired by other buggy owners. Like the Manxter, the kick -Out s hood opens as well, but is also removable. This allows access to an easily removed gas tank, front axle and brake system below. The hood s slip-hinge makes this quickly possible. One opens the hood, unplugs the headlights and slips the hood sideways for complete removal Two molded in dimples will be found near the lower front edge of the hood. Drill these with a 3/8 dia. bit. Install the slip-hinge inside the hood (opposite of the gel-coated side). Secure the hinge to the hood using the two 3/8 x socket head bolts, nuts and washers.

5 With both leafs of the slip-hinge joined together, place the hood on the car carefully positioning the hood well back, snug between the front fenders. Working under the car, the loose leaf of the slip-hinge should be swung upwards against the body. Drill upwards two 3/8 dia. holes. The two flat head socket bolts are used here necessitating countersinking the gel-coated side of the fiberglass. This provides a smooth surface as protruding bolt heads would wear holes in those spare plastic gas cans, tool bags or whatever might be stored here. Step #3 - Hood Emblem The last and final touch to the hood is the application of the Meyers Manx hood emblem on the small surface created for it. A dry run for placement is recommended. The lower edge of the emblem should not be placed below or beyond the top or beginning of the small radius on the bump just below the emblem.

6 Before removing the protective backing, hold the emblem in position and see if it rocks to and fro. If it does, use a marker and outline the emblems placement. With masking tape, mask outside of the outline for protection. Because the plug used to make the hood mold was so highly polished and buffed, this small bump became slightly rounded, it s once flat surface becoming rounded off. A small block with course 16-36 grit sandpaper can be used, or a small 1 2 disc sander in your drill motor, gently flatten the surface, grinding into the gel-coat until its flat. Check often with a small straight edge. 3-M emblem adhesive will insure a good grip being sure to follow directions to the letter. Acetone or fingernail polish remover will remove the lines from the marker pen. Step #4 Open Hood When open, the hood is designed to stand vertically, leaning against the backside of the front bumper.

7 The hood is shiny and smooth, so is the polished stainless bumper or chromed nudge bar, whichever you have purchased. Gently coming to rest, there is little to show where they touch, but eventually this will mar the finish. Two small pieces of rubber or sponge-faced tape applied to the backside of the bumper will make a soft protective resting place for the hood. Step #5 Fuel Tank Installation Any VW Bug gas tank will fit the same space provided, but I recommend the following: In 1968 a little door appeared just forward of the passenger door on all VW Bugs. This little door opened to a filler cap screwed to a neck within a rubber hose connected to the fuel tank under the hood. Save all this stuff, it can be shortened some and used along with the four hold-downs that clamp the tank into the body. If unavailable, four large fender washers will also work under the four boltheads.

8 A small diameter tube may be found at the opposite end of the tank from the filler pipe. This can be used as a breather tube by running a small plastic hose from this upwards, crossing to the other side of the car under the windshield, down and out through a small hole down the body and out through another small hole drilled in the floorpan to be pointed at the ground works! Step #6 Fuel Tank Alteration Warning! This is a potentially dangerous process if the following procedure is done on a used gas tank. The only answer to the interfering headlight well, bumping into the gas tank, was to remove the interfering gas tank. Not to worry! Most old VW tanks that look great are rusted out around the drain hole. Check it out. If you still want to use an old gas tank, plug up all outlets, fill the tank with water, prop it up so the only air space is up in the intended area of the front corner driver s side before welding on the tank whatever, it s your choice.

9 We can supply you with a new altered tank or you may use the following directions on a new tank. Step #7 Roll Bar Installation One of the most glaring mistakes in the building of a Meyers Manx dune buggy is the bad placement of the roll bar. The slight sloping back of the windshield (18 from vertical) is to be repeated in the roll bar an elemental basic of the cars design. The fact that we have pre-drilled the roll bar holes in the body does not insure proper placement, except for this leaning back angle. The other element of misplacement is the not so perfect matching alignment of its top to the top of the windshield. As one walks toward a buggy that has its roll bar top edge cock-eyed to the windshields top edge, the whole car appears twisted or distorted. So, we have decided to pre-drill only the roll bar holes on the driver s side.

10 Using Roll Bar Assy Part #154, you attach the roll bar to these holes only attaching the small L brackets to the torsion housing first, then eyeball or level the roll bar to match the top of the windshield, drill and secure the roll bar s other side to complete the installation. For a maximum strength installation, the L brackets should be bolted down into the unused body mounting holes found nearest the outer ends of the rear torsion bar housing. The remaining vertical end of the L bracket should fit against the outside of the body, the intention being to pass a bolt through it, the fiberglass and the lower weldment bracket of the roll bar. Most important, this ties the roll bar to the chassis. The upper weldment should be bolted to the body side panel, using the 3/8 flat washers against the outside of the fiberglass body.