Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes, and Processes : a Concise ...

1 TEXTILEFIBERS, Dyes, FINISHES, ,EditorFABRICFORMINGSYSTEMSByPeterSchwar tz,TreverRhodesandMansourMohamedTEXTILEI DENTIFICATION,CONSERVATION, , Dyes, Finishes, ANDPROC- :Chemistry,Equipment,Procedures, , , , , Dyes, FINISHES, ,DavisDavis,CaliforniaCopyright :86-5203 ISBN:0-8155-1076-4 PrintedintheUnitedStatesPublishedintheUn itedStatesofAmericabyNoyesPublicationsMi llRoad,ParkRidge,NewJersey076561098765 LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-Publicati onDataNeedles, , Dyes, finishes, '. ,fiberscouldbeformedbyforcingdissolvedpo lymericmaterialsthrougha smallorifice(spinneret) Bytheturnofthe20thcentury,rayon,aregener atedcellulosicandthefirstman-madefiberof commercialimportance,wasinfullproduction . Bythe1920sthecellulosederivativesacetate andtri-acetatewereintroducedasfibersofco mmerce, (nylon) ,andseveralnewtypesofsyntheticfibers,inc ludingpolyester,acrylic,modacrylic,polyo lefin,andvinylfibers,appearedinthe1940s, 1950s, , , , Dyes, andfinishesandtheprocessesusedinfi ber,yarn, ,types,andcomplexityoffibersnowavailable foruseinconsumertextiles,studentsorprofe ssionalsintextiles,textilesandcloth-ing, andtextilescienceneednotonlya listingoffibersandfiberpropertiesbutalso afirmfoundationintherelationshipoffibers tructuretothephysicalandchemicalproperti esoffibers, ,yarns, , , Dyes, Finishes, andprocessesusingthisinte rmediateap-proach,presentinginaconcisema nnertheunderlyingprinciplesoftextilechem -istry,physics, ,textilesandclothing,andtextilescience,w hodesirea basicknowl-edgeoftextilefibers,finishes, ,DavisMarch, , , ,England,andisalsoProgramChairmanoftheCe llulose, ,FORMATION, ,Texturizing.

2 AndStapleFormation17 Heat-SettingTechniques19 AirEntanglement19 DifferentialSetting20 StapleFormation20 Structure-PropertyRelationshi ,Physical,andChemicalCharacterization23 OpticalandElectronMicroscopy24 ElementalandEnd-GroupAnalysis24 InfraredSpectroscopy24 Ultraviolet-VisibleSpectroscopy25 NuclearMagneticResonanceSpectroscopy25X- RayDiffraction25 ThermalAnalysis26 MolecularWeightDetermination26 MechanicalandTensilePropertyMeasurements 27 SpecificGravity27 EnvironmentalProperties28 ChemicalProperties28 End-UsePropertyCharacterization29 CharacteristicsRelatedtoIdentity,Aesthet ics, ,Alpaca, ,669 StructuralProperties70 PhysicalProperties72 ChemicalProperties73 End-UseProperties73 AramidFibers74 StructuralProperties74 PhysicalProperties75 ChemicalProperties75 End-UseProperties76 OtherPolyamides76 Qiana76 Nylon478 Nylon1179 Nylon6, , (PBI) (Weft) ,DYEING, , Dyes, DYEINGANDPRINTING158 ColorTheory158 DyesandDyeClassification164 DyesContainingAnionicFunctionalGroups165 AcidDyes165 DirectDyes167 MordantDyes168 ReactiveDyes169 DyesContainingCationicGroups(BasicDyes)

3 171 DyesRequiringChemicalReactionBeforeAppli cation172 VatDyes172 SulfurDyes174 AzoicDyes176 SpecialColorantClasses178 DisperseDyes178 SolventDyes180 Pigments180 NaturalDyes181 DyeingofBlends182 ApplicationMethodsandFactorsAffectingDye ing183 DyesAppliedtoFiberClasses188 ContentsxvDyesforCellu ,Comfort,andService196 OpticalFinishes196 HydrophilicandSoilReleaseFinishes197 SoftenersandAbrasionResistantFinishes197 StiffeningandWeightingAgents197 LaminatingAgents198 CreaseResistantandStabilizingFinishes198 ProtectiveFinishes199 PhotoprotectiveAgentsandAntioxidants199 OilandWaterRepellents199 Antistats200 BiologicallyActiveFinishes200 FlameRetardants201 FinishesAppliedtoFiberClasses202 FinishesforCellulosics202 CreaseResistantandAuxiliaryFinishes202 OilandWaterRepellentFinishes204 BiologicallyProtectiveFinishes204 FlameRetardantFinishes204 FinishesforCelluloseEsterFibers205 FinishesforProteinFibers206 ChemicalSetting206 ShrinkproofingandWrinkleResistanceFinish es206 MothproofingTreatments207 WeightingTreatments207 FlameRetardantTreatments207 FinishesforPolyamideFibers207 PhotoprotectiveAgentsandAntioxidants207 AntistaticAgents208 FlameRetardantFinishes208xviContentsFini shesforPolyester.

4 SUGGESTEDFURTHERREADING221 FiberTheory,Formation,andCharacterizatio nandFiberProperties221 YarnandTextileSubstrateFormation222 Preparation, ,Formation, " Textile "wasoriginallyusedtodefineawoven fabricandtheprocessesinvo1vedinweavi ,includingthefollowing:(1)staplefilament sandfibersforuseinyarnsorpreparationofwo ven,knitted,tuftedornon-wovenfabrics,(2) yarnsmadefromnaturalorman-madefibers,(3) fabricsandotherproductsmadefromfibersorf romyarns,and(4) ~ ,textileyarnsarecon-tinuousstrandsmadeup oftextilefibers, ,aswellasthe grosscrosssectionandshapeofthefiber(morp hology),willaffectfiberproperties, , chain(n)variesfromafewunitstoseveralhund redandisreferredtoasthedegreeofpolymeriz ation(DP) , Dyes, Finishes, , (animals,plants,etc.) ,thecellulosefiberssuchascottonandlinen, , ,allsyntheticfibersandregener-FiberTheor vandFormation3atedfibersareman-madefiber s, , (nylon),poly-esters,acrylics,polyolefins ,vinyls,andelastomericfibers,whilethereg eneratedfibersincluderayon,thecellulosea cetates,theregeneratedproteins, , , , ,newfiberswhichdonotproperly"fit".

5 CellulosicFibersCottonFlaxOthernaturalce llulosicfibersRayonCellulosicEsterFibers AcetateTriacetateProtein(NaturalPolyamid e)FibersWoolSilkOthernaturalandregen-era tedproteinfibersPolyamide(Nylon)FibersNy lon6and6,6 AramidOthernylonfibersPolyesterFibersPol yethyleneterephthalatePoly-l,4-cyclohexy lenedi-methyleneterephthalateOtherpolyes terfibersAcrylicandModacrylicFibersAcryl icModacrylicOtheracryli cs4 TextileFibers,DVes, Finishes, andProcesses PolyolefinFibersPolyethylenePolypropylen eVinylFibersVinyonVinalVinyon-vinalmatri xSaranPolytetrafluoroethyleneElastomeric FibersRubberSpandexOtherelastomericfiber sFIBERPROPERTIESM ineralandMetallicFibersGlassInorganicAsb estosMetallicMiscellaneousFibersNovaloid CarbonPoly(~-phenylenediben-zimidazole)P olyimideThereareseveralprimaryproperties necessaryforapolymericmater-ialtomakeana dequatefiber:(1)fiberlengthtowidthratio, (2)fiberuniformity,(3)fiberstrengthandfl exibility,(4)fiberextensibilityandelasti city,and(5) ,fiberresiliency,abrasionresistance,dens ity,luster,chemicalresistance,thermalcha racteristics, ,thewidthofthefiber(thediameterofthecros ssection)mustbemuchlessthantheoveralllen gthofthefiber,andusuallythefiberdiameter shouldbe1 "infinitely"long,asfoundwithcontinuousfi lamentfibers, ( ), , ,rough, ,whereassyntheticfibersmaybe"tailored"by cut-t ingintoappropriateuni , , (g/d)orgramspertex(g/tex).

6 Bothdenierandtexareunitsof1ineardensity( massperunitoffiberlength)andaredefinedas thenumberofgramsoffibermeasuring9000mete rsand1000meters, , ,thetenacityofafiberingramsperdenierwill be1 (km)ofbreakinglengthorNewtonspertex(N/te x) ,orfabriccanbeexpressedintermsofforceper unitarea, , (kPa) (MPa).6 TextileFibers, Dyes, Finishes, ,itwouldbeimpossibletoconvertfibersintoy arnsandfabrics, , :Anindividualfibermustbeabletoundergosli ghtextensionsinlength(lessthan5%) , , , "spinningquality" :Mostfiberstendtoabsorbmois-tu re(watervapor) , ,thenplacingitinaroomsettostandardtemper atureandhumidity(210 10 Cand65%relativehumidity[RH]arecommonlyus ed).Fromthesemeasurements,thepercentagem oistureregainofthefiberisdetermined:Cond itionedweight-Dryweightx100%Percentagere gain=~~~~~~~-~--~-~~~-~DryweightFiberThe oryandFormation7 Percentagemoisturecontentofafiberisthepe rcentageofthetotalweightofthefiberwhichi sduetothemoisturepresent,andisobtainedfr omthefollowingformula.

7 PercentagemoisturecontentConditionedweig ht-Dryweightx100% ,withhydrophobic(water-repel-ling)fibers havingregainsnearzeroandhydrophilic(wate r-seeking)fibers1ikecotton,rayon,andwool havingregainsashighas15%at21 Cand65% , ,finish,anddyeinaqueoussolutions, , "breathable"fabricwhichcanconductmoistur efromthebodytotheoutsideatmospherereadil y, ,fibersinfabricsareoftenplacedunderstres sthroughcom-pression,bending,andtwisting (torsion) , ,cottonandwoolshowpoorwrinklerecoveryund erhotmoistconditions, , ,brittlefibersuchasglass,whichisunableto dissi-8 TextileFibers, Dyes, Finishes, andProcessespatetheforcesofabrasiveactio n,resultsinfiberdamageandbreakage, , , ,particularlyinthepresenceoflight, ,andfibersfromnaturalsourcesaresusceptib letobiologicalattack, , ,butin51unitswillbeexpressedaskilogramsp ercubicmeter, :Fibersusedintextilesmustberesistanttowe tanddryheat,mustnotignitereadilywhencomi ngincontactwitha flame, , ,state, ,fabrication, meltingand/ordecompositionpointabove220 moistureabsorptivityof2%-5% ,swelling,orsolutioninsolvents,acids, , ,nitrogen, ,andthestructure10 TextileFibers, Dyes, Finishes, andProcesses tronsbetweenadjacentatomswithinthemonome r,andthestructureofthemonomerisdetermine dbythetype,location, givennumber(n) , ~.

8 :-.:..:..c.:..::. ::.. ,LAJnor~ ' (An) ,structureswhicharecopolymersareformedwi thstructuresasoutlinedinFigure1-3."-'ABA BABABABNALTERNATINGCOPOLYMERIVAABABABBBA IVRANDOMCOPOLYMERBBBBBIVAA~AA~A'"GRAFTCO POLYMER'vAA AAAA- (condensation)orchaingrowth(addition) ,whichinturncondenseswithanotherdimertof ormatetramer,etc., ,followedbyinitia-tionofasecondchain, :12 TextileFibers, Dyes, Finishes, andProcessesStepgrowth:nnnA~IAA~lAAAA~Ch aingrowth:nA~(A)nnA~(A)nnA~(A)nTheaverag enumberofmonomerrepeatingunitsinapolymer chain(n)isoftenreferredtoalsoasthedegree ofpolymerization, , , ,regeneratedandsyntheticman-madefibersca nbe"tailor-made"dependingontheshapeanddi mensionsoftheorifice(spinningjet) ,includingmelt,dry,wet,emulsion, ,followedbypassingaconcentratedsolu-tion (20%-50%polymer) , (detergent) )RAYON) , )6-P<> OCH2CH20tPOLYESTER+H2~~~ ,Dves, Finishes, andProcessesInsuspensions pinning, :(1)flowofspinningfluidwithinandthrought hespinneretunderhighstressandsheer.

9 (2)exitoffluidfromthespinneretwithrelief ofstressandanincreaseinvolume(ballooning offlow).(3) ,trilobal,pentalobal,dog-bone, ,thetwocompo-nentscanbearrangedina matrix,side-by-side, (aswithrayons)hasoccurredorwherethespinn eretshapehasprovideda , , , ~ED() , (covalent,ionic )aswellassecondarybonds(hydrogenbonds,va nderWaa1sforces,dipo1e-dipo1einteraction s).Cova1entbondsresultfromsharingofelect ronsbetweenatoms,suchasfoundincarbon-car bon,c a rbon-oxygen,andcarbon-nitrogenbonding, ,a swhenametalsaltreactswithacidsidechainso napo1ymerwithin ,butthetotalassociativeforcebetweenpolym erchainscanbelarge, tofthesecondarybondsandoccurbetweenelect ropositivehydrogenatomsandelectronegativ eatomssuc hasoxygen,nitrogen,andhalogensonopposing polymerchains .Nylon,protein,andcellulosicfibersarecap ableofe eprox im-ity, xtendedthecloudofelectrons, ,themoleculesinmos tc aseswillorientthemselvesincrystallineare asparalleltothefibera xis, ,thedistancebetweenparallelchains, ,~ ,Texturizing, ,thermoplasticfibersoryarnsfromthesefibe rscanbetexturizedtogivethreedimensionall oft18 TextileFibers,Dves, Finishes, andProcesses andbulkiness(1)throughfiberdeformationan dsettingatorneartheirsofteningtemperatur e,(2)throughairentanglement,or(3)through differ-entialsettingwithinfibersoryarns( TableI).

10 :Thefa1setwistheat-settingtechni queisextremelyrapid,inexpensive, , , ,thefilamenttowisfedintoaheatedbox, , , , , ,heatset,cooled, :Inairentanglementtexturizing,afibertowi slooselyfedintoandthrougharestrictedspac eandahigh-speedairjetisimpingedonthefibe rsata45 , Dyes, Finishes, andProcessesDifferentialSetting:Heatshri nkagetechniquescauseabulkingoffibertowsc ontainingdifferentfibersthroughheatingon ecomponentoftheblendsufficientlytocauseh eatshrinkageofthefiberandcompaction,cont raction, waving,crimping, ,thewetspunfiberiscuttouniformlengthsrig htafterspinning,whiledrycuttinginvolvesp artialcutting,debond-ing, , ,mineraloils,syntheticesters,silicones,c ationicamines,phosphateesters,emul-sifie rs, ,tobeeasilyremovedbyscouring,togiveacont rolledviscosity,tobestabletocorrosion,to resistodorandcolorformation, , , ,inthefollowingchapterswewilldescribethe varioustextilefibersintermsoftheirbasics tructuralproperties,followedbyphysicalan dchemicalproperties, ,includinginfor-mationaboutchemicalstruc tureofthepolymer,degreeofpolymerization, (tensile)