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Water Waves - MIT
Shallow water Intermediate water Deep water Pressure Field: dynamic pressure pd = ¡‰@` @t; total pressure p = pd ¡‰gy pd = ‰g· (no decay) p = ‰g(· ¡y) | {z } \hydrostatic" approximation pd = ‰gA coshk(y +h) coshkh cos(kx¡!t) = ‰g coshk(y +h) coshkh · pd pdo same picture as u Uo p d(¡h) p do = 1 coshkh pd = ‰geky· p (¡h ...
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